Friday, September 19, 2008
Mason Art Show this Sunday
Hi neighbors! If you have time, check out Mason's 3rd annual art show on Sunday. The location at the Municipal center is easy to access with plenty of parking, food, entertainment and of course, art. There are booths outside and a gallery of artists inside. Very family friendly for those with kids. I will have a couple of pieces in the inside gallery.
Wednesday, September 17, 2008
hoa annual meeting
Coming in the mail to you ...
Dear Neighbor,
This is to invite you to the Mason Fields Home Owner Association Meeting on 12 November from 7:00 PM – 8:30 PM. The meeting will be in room 2029 of the Mason Municipal Center, 6000 Mason-Montgomery Road.
The annual meeting was formerly held in February but due to continued increases in HOA dues the board determined it best to review the annual budget prior to announcing next year’s fees.
We also moved this forward in hopes that one or more of you would volunteer to use 2009 to identify money saving options to apply to 2010. We will not use the meeting to develop solutions but to agree if someone(s) of you wants to drive out options to present in time for the 2010 budget process.
I look forward to your active participation in this.
Sunday, September 14, 2008
roofing
Use who you want but if you have no contacts, I've used Deer Park Roofing. The last time I had shingles blow off it was $185. It's not cheap but it's less than the hospital bill if I fall.
Contact info ...
By E-Mail:
info@deerparkroofing.com
By Fax:
513-891-9152
By Phone:
513-891-9151
By Mail:
4268 Matson Ave (on the corner of Matson & Blue Ash)
Cincinnati, OH 45236
Contact info ...
By E-Mail:
info@deerparkroofing.com
By Fax:
513-891-9152
By Phone:
513-891-9151
By Mail:
4268 Matson Ave (on the corner of Matson & Blue Ash)
Cincinnati, OH 45236
Friday, September 12, 2008
what seed?
There are many seed options for overseeding. I'm using Scotts Pure Premium Heat-Tolerant Blue this year - about $42 for 5,000 sq ft.. Yep - not cheap.To overseed, mow grass closely, then loosen top 1/4 inch of soil in bare and thin areas. To seed a new lawn, loosen top 2 to 3 inches of soil to provide a lodging place for the seeds. Distribute the seed evenly. Apply Scotts Starter® Fertilizer to increase seeding success and then water thoroughly. WATERING IS CRUCIAL TO SEEDING SUCCESS. Keep the top 1/2 inch of soil damp by watering twice daily until all seedlings are up. Continue to water once or twice a day until the lawn is established (6 to 8 weeks). In 4-6 weeks, make an application of Scotts Turf Builder Lawn Fertilizer. This helps the plants knit together to form a thick, green carpet of grass. Do not apply a weed control product until after at least three mowings. Mow new seedlings as soon as they reach normal mowing height.
Wednesday, September 10, 2008
4 reasons for fall overseeding
4 reasons why fall is the best time for overseeding:
- Cooler air and warm soil - ideal for faster germination
- More days of ideal growing weather
- More light, due to leaves falling from trees
- Less competition from weeds
Monday, September 8, 2008
5 Things...................
5 Things You've Eaten and Think that Everyone Should Eat at least Once Before They Die. I won't force my culinary opinions on anyone so my take on this is:
Five Things I'd Like To Eat Again (It's too morbid to bring death into this)
1. Trio's blue cheese apple pizza.
2. Rita Heikenfeld's White Bean Italian Soup (Email me for the recipe)
3. Giuseppe's Pizza from North Canton....it's worth the drive!
4. A French 2 Step sundae from Aglameisi Brothers in Oakley (2 scoops vanilla with chocolate whipped cream and chocolate syrup drizzle)
5. A steak made by a Jeff Ruby Restaurant (I prefer The Precinct)
Now it's your turn. What is your favorite?
Five Things I'd Like To Eat Again (It's too morbid to bring death into this)
1. Trio's blue cheese apple pizza.
2. Rita Heikenfeld's White Bean Italian Soup (Email me for the recipe)
3. Giuseppe's Pizza from North Canton....it's worth the drive!
4. A French 2 Step sundae from Aglameisi Brothers in Oakley (2 scoops vanilla with chocolate whipped cream and chocolate syrup drizzle)
5. A steak made by a Jeff Ruby Restaurant (I prefer The Precinct)
Now it's your turn. What is your favorite?
Tuesday, September 2, 2008
so you got thatch?
Thatch and How to Manage It (from the University of Illinois Extension)
Thatch is a dense layer of living and dead organic matter on the soil surface.
Thatch in lawns is often misunderstood; both its cause and control. Some lawns have serious thatch problems while others do not. Thatch is a layer of living and dead organic matter that occurs between the green matter and the soil surface. Excessive thatch (over 1/2 inch thick) creates a favorable environment for pests and disease, an unfavorable growing environment for grass roots, and can interfere with some lawn care practices.
The primary component of thatch is turfgrass stems and roots. It accumulates as these plant parts buildup faster than they breakdown. Thatch problems are due to a combination of biological, cultural, and environmental factors. Cultural practices can have a big impact on thatch. For example, heavy nitrogen fertilizer applications or overwatering frequently contribute to thatch, because they cause the lawn to grow excessively fast. Avoid overfertilizing and overwatering. Despite popular belief, short clippings dropped on the lawn after mowing are not the cause of thatch buildup. Clippings are very high in water content and breakdown rapidly when returned to lawns after mowing, assuming lawns are mowed on a regular basis (not removing more than one-third of the leaf blade).
Excessive thatch accumulation has lead to lawn rooting into thatch rather than soil.
As thatch levels accumulate to greater than 1/2 inch, lawn problems may begin, and the thatch needs to be controlled. Thatch may be torn out with a dethatcher or vertical mower, but will most likely return unless the cause is corrected. Mechanical dethatching is also very destructive to the lawn because roots are in thatch instead of soil, so plants tear out easily. Overseeding is usually required afterwards. For this reason, it's best to tear out thatch in late August for optimum reseeding timing.
Core aerating helps degrade thatch and also helps solve some of the causes of thatch.
Core aerification, followed by topdressing are two methods that will generally correct the reasons thatch is accumulating. Core aerifying machines will pull up small soil cores to the surface that are left there to act like topdressing. The holes created help solve problems such as compaction or poor drainage. Topdressing is simply adding a thin layer(1/8 to 1/4 inch) of compatible soil over the thatch, which adds microorganisms to help in breakdown.
Aerifying equipment may be rented or services are available to do it for hire. Aerifing is an excellent lawn practice with many benefits, as it helps solve soil problems that in turn leads to better root systems and healthier lawns. Aerify in spring or fall, making sure adequate moisture exists in the soil. Make two trips over the lawn, the second perpendicular to the first. An average of 15 to 20 aeration holes per square foot is suggested. Cores should remain on the surface and allowed to air dry. These cores act as topdressing that helps degrade thatch. Additional topdressing material could be added after core aerifying if desired.
Thatch is a dense layer of living and dead organic matter on the soil surface.
Thatch in lawns is often misunderstood; both its cause and control. Some lawns have serious thatch problems while others do not. Thatch is a layer of living and dead organic matter that occurs between the green matter and the soil surface. Excessive thatch (over 1/2 inch thick) creates a favorable environment for pests and disease, an unfavorable growing environment for grass roots, and can interfere with some lawn care practices.
The primary component of thatch is turfgrass stems and roots. It accumulates as these plant parts buildup faster than they breakdown. Thatch problems are due to a combination of biological, cultural, and environmental factors. Cultural practices can have a big impact on thatch. For example, heavy nitrogen fertilizer applications or overwatering frequently contribute to thatch, because they cause the lawn to grow excessively fast. Avoid overfertilizing and overwatering. Despite popular belief, short clippings dropped on the lawn after mowing are not the cause of thatch buildup. Clippings are very high in water content and breakdown rapidly when returned to lawns after mowing, assuming lawns are mowed on a regular basis (not removing more than one-third of the leaf blade).
Excessive thatch accumulation has lead to lawn rooting into thatch rather than soil.
As thatch levels accumulate to greater than 1/2 inch, lawn problems may begin, and the thatch needs to be controlled. Thatch may be torn out with a dethatcher or vertical mower, but will most likely return unless the cause is corrected. Mechanical dethatching is also very destructive to the lawn because roots are in thatch instead of soil, so plants tear out easily. Overseeding is usually required afterwards. For this reason, it's best to tear out thatch in late August for optimum reseeding timing.
Core aerating helps degrade thatch and also helps solve some of the causes of thatch.
Core aerification, followed by topdressing are two methods that will generally correct the reasons thatch is accumulating. Core aerifying machines will pull up small soil cores to the surface that are left there to act like topdressing. The holes created help solve problems such as compaction or poor drainage. Topdressing is simply adding a thin layer(1/8 to 1/4 inch) of compatible soil over the thatch, which adds microorganisms to help in breakdown.
Aerifying equipment may be rented or services are available to do it for hire. Aerifing is an excellent lawn practice with many benefits, as it helps solve soil problems that in turn leads to better root systems and healthier lawns. Aerify in spring or fall, making sure adequate moisture exists in the soil. Make two trips over the lawn, the second perpendicular to the first. An average of 15 to 20 aeration holes per square foot is suggested. Cores should remain on the surface and allowed to air dry. These cores act as topdressing that helps degrade thatch. Additional topdressing material could be added after core aerifying if desired.
slice seeding v. core aeration
Through the ages, slice (or slit) seeding versus core aeration with overseeding has puzzled even the greenest homeowners. If you search the internet, for every opinion offered supporting one method, you'll find another supporting the other. But there's no reason to be ignorant regarding the terminology. So, if you want to be ready for your next chat with Dr. John Conyers, here's all you need to know.
Slice Seeding: Restores lawn
Slice seeding is used to either repair a damaged lawn or to improve a thin or weak lawn. Sometimes disease and insect damage can thin a lawn so badly that renovation is the last resort. On a new or thin lawn, slice seeding will introduce new seed into the lawn and help thicken it up. This method solves lawn problems efficiently, and improves your lawn’s density. The seeder cuts furrows into the soil and plants the seed into the furrow. This method puts the seed directly in contact with the soil as opposed to merely spreading seeds onto your lawn, many of which will most likely not germinate. Slice seeding plants new seed into the soil without stripping existing sod. It is the best way to renew or thin a heavily thatched lawn and sow in new and improved seed varieties. Slice seeding is the most effective way to ensure good seed to soil contact and prepare the seed bed at the same time. It enables you to have better looking and more resistant grass types that are adapted to the various conditions on your property.
Core aeration with overseeding: Used to thicken and upgrade lawn
Core aeration is the process of mechanically removing plugs of soil and thatch from a lawn. Overseeding is the process of putting seeds into a seed spreader, and then spreading the seeds over the entire lawn. The purpose of core aeration with overseeding is to introduce better grass varieties into your lawn. It reduces soil compaction, minimizes thatch accumulation, and will give you a greener and thicker lawn. Core aeration with overseeding is a great alternative because it combines aeration with specially formulated seeds for your lawn. It is important to note, however, that core aeration will not yield the same results as slice seeding.
Slice Seeding: Restores lawn
Slice seeding is used to either repair a damaged lawn or to improve a thin or weak lawn. Sometimes disease and insect damage can thin a lawn so badly that renovation is the last resort. On a new or thin lawn, slice seeding will introduce new seed into the lawn and help thicken it up. This method solves lawn problems efficiently, and improves your lawn’s density. The seeder cuts furrows into the soil and plants the seed into the furrow. This method puts the seed directly in contact with the soil as opposed to merely spreading seeds onto your lawn, many of which will most likely not germinate. Slice seeding plants new seed into the soil without stripping existing sod. It is the best way to renew or thin a heavily thatched lawn and sow in new and improved seed varieties. Slice seeding is the most effective way to ensure good seed to soil contact and prepare the seed bed at the same time. It enables you to have better looking and more resistant grass types that are adapted to the various conditions on your property.
Core aeration with overseeding: Used to thicken and upgrade lawn
Core aeration is the process of mechanically removing plugs of soil and thatch from a lawn. Overseeding is the process of putting seeds into a seed spreader, and then spreading the seeds over the entire lawn. The purpose of core aeration with overseeding is to introduce better grass varieties into your lawn. It reduces soil compaction, minimizes thatch accumulation, and will give you a greener and thicker lawn. Core aeration with overseeding is a great alternative because it combines aeration with specially formulated seeds for your lawn. It is important to note, however, that core aeration will not yield the same results as slice seeding.
sprinkler update
I met with the guys from T.R. Gear this morning to review our sprinkler system. They replaced 11 heads and worked on many more last week. The system is currently set to come on daily about 4 am. Each zone is set for 30 minutes so some of you may catch it on in the wee hours of the morning. If you notice a specific problem, please let me know.
We cycled the system this morning and it looks like we are getting good coverage (now that the heads are repaired). The current problem spots are primarily thatch and places that are damaged needing repair. De-thatching and reseeding is currently not in our budget.
We cycled the system this morning and it looks like we are getting good coverage (now that the heads are repaired). The current problem spots are primarily thatch and places that are damaged needing repair. De-thatching and reseeding is currently not in our budget.
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