I have stopped a few cars this week for driving a little to fast on our streat. I hate doing it, I don't want to be "that guy" who is always asking people to slow down. We have soooo many young children in our community and now have a welcomed additional six children.
Let's please try to watch our speed.
For the most part it is not homeowners here. I is delivery people "pizza" or people that are turning around.
I am debating on calling the police to see about speed humps being put in. Any one have any thoughts? I am guessing that the speed humps will only happen if enough complaint calls are received. Let me know what you think.
The last guy that I asked to slow down last night actually got out of his car and yelled the speed limit it 25 and that's what I am doing. He had been drinking and was delivering a paper of some sort. luckily Mike was outside.
John
Sunday, June 29, 2008
Thursday, June 26, 2008
sedgehammer is in!!!!
I just received my supply of Sedgehammer for killing nutsedge. My cost was $150 including shipping handling, etc.. I am prepared to sell a 1 gallon application for $5. That includes Sedgehammer and the required non-ionic surfactant. You need to supply the 1 gallon sprayer and water.
One gallon covers 1000 sq. ft. but none of us have solid nutsedge. I did my whole yard with about half a gallon. I think it will take another couple of applications before it is under control but eventually 1 gallon should last an entire season.
John/Rich - since you already have your own surfactant, I can give you a break and charge you only $7.50 per gallon.
One gallon covers 1000 sq. ft. but none of us have solid nutsedge. I did my whole yard with about half a gallon. I think it will take another couple of applications before it is under control but eventually 1 gallon should last an entire season.
John/Rich - since you already have your own surfactant, I can give you a break and charge you only $7.50 per gallon.
What You Need To Know When you Are New To The Area
We have a few new families moving in this summer. I thought I'd start a post and other's could add onto it with their thoughts. What do you need to know about this area when you move in?
Trash pick up is Monday, but they come early Monday am, so consider putting it out Sunday pm. They do trash pick up on holidays. Recycling bins are free and available at the Mason City Building (across from the Community Center.) They will give you 2 if you ask, but the recycling guy told me they are instructed to pick up the second if neither bin is that full.
You live near the Little Miami Scenic Bike Trail. Family fun, but not wise to go it alone. King's Island and the Zoo are good memberships. Krohn Conservatory is free and wonderful to see spring flowers end of January!
3 Major grocery stores: Bigg's, Meijer's, and Kroger's.BUT Jungle Jim's is a blast! Kids love it. I encourage you to go early (8-9a) with kids so it's less crowded and they can enjoy it more. Oh,and take me, Karen Osler. I can show you the cool stuff.
Cincinnatians say things like PONY KEG which is the local stop and shop . "UDF" is United Dairy Farmers which is also a pony keg......... We also say "Please?" when we want something repeated.
Best food unique to our area: Skyline Chili, Graeter's ice cream and I think the Precinct Restaurant/Jeff Ruby's Steakhouse. The best restaurant to see the city is the Riverview (in N. Ky), which revolves around- they have a nice Sunday brunch.
The Level 1 Trauma Centers are Univ. of Cincinnati and Miami Valley. Level 3 is Bethesda North. Children's Hospital is THE place to take your kids, known worldwide. They have an Urgent Care at Children's Mason 6p-11p. A new 24/7 Children's will be open in West Chester in August. John and I have both tried the Doctor's Urgent Care on Tylersville with satisfaction. Arrow Springs ER is 2 exits up- SR 48 North. Same docs and nurses as B-North but no waits and fastest way to get a bed at North. That being said I am forever partial to Christ Hospital. What you weren't asking?
Okay- help me out. What do you think our new neighbors need to know?
Trash pick up is Monday, but they come early Monday am, so consider putting it out Sunday pm. They do trash pick up on holidays. Recycling bins are free and available at the Mason City Building (across from the Community Center.) They will give you 2 if you ask, but the recycling guy told me they are instructed to pick up the second if neither bin is that full.
You live near the Little Miami Scenic Bike Trail. Family fun, but not wise to go it alone. King's Island and the Zoo are good memberships. Krohn Conservatory is free and wonderful to see spring flowers end of January!
3 Major grocery stores: Bigg's, Meijer's, and Kroger's.BUT Jungle Jim's is a blast! Kids love it. I encourage you to go early (8-9a) with kids so it's less crowded and they can enjoy it more. Oh,and take me, Karen Osler. I can show you the cool stuff.
Cincinnatians say things like PONY KEG which is the local stop and shop . "UDF" is United Dairy Farmers which is also a pony keg......... We also say "Please?" when we want something repeated.
Best food unique to our area: Skyline Chili, Graeter's ice cream and I think the Precinct Restaurant/Jeff Ruby's Steakhouse. The best restaurant to see the city is the Riverview (in N. Ky), which revolves around- they have a nice Sunday brunch.
The Level 1 Trauma Centers are Univ. of Cincinnati and Miami Valley. Level 3 is Bethesda North. Children's Hospital is THE place to take your kids, known worldwide. They have an Urgent Care at Children's Mason 6p-11p. A new 24/7 Children's will be open in West Chester in August. John and I have both tried the Doctor's Urgent Care on Tylersville with satisfaction. Arrow Springs ER is 2 exits up- SR 48 North. Same docs and nurses as B-North but no waits and fastest way to get a bed at North. That being said I am forever partial to Christ Hospital. What you weren't asking?
Okay- help me out. What do you think our new neighbors need to know?
Tuesday, June 24, 2008
Extreme Home Makeover is Coming!
I got really excited that someone in our town would be blessed with this chance. I got SO excited I signed up to volunteer for TWO night shifts, thinking those would be the hardest to staff, but probably the best time to get things done. Jim just laughed and said "This isn't a hospital, it's a construction site! You are going to be with Joe and Larry at 3am!" I hope Joe and Larry are hungry, I'll bake them something. I signed up for 6p-6a 7/14 & 15.....in case anyone wants to join me? No? They have shifts round the clock from 7/9-7/17. Oh and Rick they won't let me wear a fireman's t-shirt.( I am so throwing you a bone here!)
Here's the link:
http://emhe.duke-energy.com/default.asp
Here's the link:
http://emhe.duke-energy.com/default.asp
Sunday, June 22, 2008
more on nutsedge
Klaus's ... thanks for the post on Nutsedge.
I started to add a comment but thought some folks may not notice it. This post is to build on yours.
0.9 g makes 1 gallon of spray. As bad as my yard and a neighbor's was, we used a full gallon in one application. John Conyer whose yard is in great shape claims that once under control, a gallon should last a season.
I have ordered about 30 applications worth - should arrive this week. The larger quantity was far cheaper than ordering individually.
Once it arrives, I will do the math but I think I can sell it for $10 (or less) for a gallon's worth.
So, if you have a sprayer, contact me at rianniello {at} gmail {dot} com ... of course do the right thing with the "at" and "dot".
I started to add a comment but thought some folks may not notice it. This post is to build on yours.
0.9 g makes 1 gallon of spray. As bad as my yard and a neighbor's was, we used a full gallon in one application. John Conyer whose yard is in great shape claims that once under control, a gallon should last a season.
I have ordered about 30 applications worth - should arrive this week. The larger quantity was far cheaper than ordering individually.
Once it arrives, I will do the math but I think I can sell it for $10 (or less) for a gallon's worth.
So, if you have a sprayer, contact me at rianniello {at} gmail {dot} com ... of course do the right thing with the "at" and "dot".
Nutsedge
If people have noticed a light green "grass" popping up around the neighborhood, it is a nasty weed called Nutsedge. Please read the information below from the OSU Extension office.
You can find treatment for this weed at:
(type nutsedge in the product search and look for a product called SedgeHammer...it isn't a cheap product, but the amounts shown are not a "one time" treatment but last for awhile by storing the unused product in a sprayer for use as needed)
Description
Yellow Nutsedge (Cyperus esculentus L.) is a common weed found in many home lawns and other turfgrass areas in Ohio. The color, growth habit, and rapid growth rate make yellow nutsedge a prominent distraction in the aesthetics of high quality lawns. In addition to home lawns, this weed is also a significant problem in the turfgrass areas of parks, industrial grounds, athletic fields, and golf courses.
Plant Description
Yellow nutsedge is distinctive and relatively easy to identify. The stems are erect, triangular-shaped and yellow-green in color. The leaves are also yellow-green, wide (0.38 to 0.50 inch) bladed with a thick mid-vein and a very waxy covering. The shallow, fibrous root system often produces many nut-like tubers, which are underground food storage organs. Each of these tubers can germinate and produce new plants. Each new plant can also produce rhizomes which can give rise to additional new plants.
Figure 1. Yellow nutsedge
Yellow nutsedge is a warm season perennial plant. The above ground foliage does not survive winters in Ohio. However, as soils warm during the late spring and early summer period, germination of tubers and seed produced by plants from previous years are capable of producing new yellow nutsedge plants. Heavy infestations of this weed in lawns and other turfgrass areas usually become readily apparent in July and August.
Figure 2. Yellow nutsedge rhizomes
Growth Habit
The color, texture, and growth habit of yellow nutsedge all contribute to aesthetic incompatibility with the desirable lawn turfgrasses. In addition to the aesthetic differences, the leaves of this weed have a rapid rate of vertical elongation resulting in their frequent protrusion above the canopy of the desirable grasses. Combined, these distractions make lawns unattractive during the mid to late summer period. Yellow nutsedge thrives under warm, wet conditions and can often be found in low, damp areas of lawns. This weed is often most problematic during summers with above normal rainfall. Management and environmental factors, including improper mowing, nutrient deficiencies, insect damage, drought stress, etc., which stress or reduce the density or competitive ability of the desirable turfgrasses, will often lead to increased populations of yellow nutsedge.
Management Options
Unlike most lawn weeds, yellow nutsedge is not controlled with applications of traditional annual grass weed or broadleaf weed control products. This weed is a member of the sedge family and requires the use of very specific herbicides to achieve satisfactory control. Regardless of the control strategy selected, the plan should be initiated when the weeds are young and immature. Eradication from lawns, although difficult, can be accomplished through the following approaches.
Unlike most lawn weeds, yellow nutsedge is not controlled with applications of traditional annual grass weed or broadleaf weed control products. This weed is a member of the sedge family and requires the use of very specific herbicides to achieve satisfactory control. Regardless of the control strategy selected, the plan should be initiated when the weeds are young and immature. Eradication from lawns, although difficult, can be accomplished through the following approaches.
Hand Pulling
If only a few yellow nutsedge plants are present, hand pulling may be the best way to selectively eradicate the weeds. Begin physically removing the weeds as soon as the weed plants are observed. Removal of the entire plant including root systems is necessary. Pulling mature plants is difficult. These plants will often break off at the soil surface allowing regrowth and tuber development to continue. After removal, homeowners are advised to recheck the area periodically for regrowth. This approach is effective only if performed on a regular basis.
If only a few yellow nutsedge plants are present, hand pulling may be the best way to selectively eradicate the weeds. Begin physically removing the weeds as soon as the weed plants are observed. Removal of the entire plant including root systems is necessary. Pulling mature plants is difficult. These plants will often break off at the soil surface allowing regrowth and tuber development to continue. After removal, homeowners are advised to recheck the area periodically for regrowth. This approach is effective only if performed on a regular basis.
Homeowner Treatment
Where large patches of nutsedge are present, control through the use of herbicides may be the only satisfactory option. Homeowners may purchase, through retailers, herbicides to eliminate this weed. The performance of these products is dependent on the user accurately following the "Directions For Use." Normally, two applications are required with the repeat application made 10 to 14 days following the initial application. When applying control products, avoid mowing three to five days before and after treatment. To ensure adequate herbicide absorption, do not water the lawn for at least 24 to 48 hours after product application. Applications should ideally be initiated in the late spring/early summer when the nutsedge is young, actively growing, and is most sensitive to herbicidal control. Once this weed matures, control is difficult regardless of the treatment schedule.
Where large patches of nutsedge are present, control through the use of herbicides may be the only satisfactory option. Homeowners may purchase, through retailers, herbicides to eliminate this weed. The performance of these products is dependent on the user accurately following the "Directions For Use." Normally, two applications are required with the repeat application made 10 to 14 days following the initial application. When applying control products, avoid mowing three to five days before and after treatment. To ensure adequate herbicide absorption, do not water the lawn for at least 24 to 48 hours after product application. Applications should ideally be initiated in the late spring/early summer when the nutsedge is young, actively growing, and is most sensitive to herbicidal control. Once this weed matures, control is difficult regardless of the treatment schedule.
Professional Application
The most effective turfgrass herbicides currently available for yellow nutsedge control are "Basagran" (bentazon) and "Manage" (halosulfuron). These herbicides are not sold through typical retail outlets. Homeowners desiring applications of either of these two chemical controls are encouraged to contact a licensed, commercial lawn applicator. Even with the use of these herbicides, a few weeks time may be required to eliminate the plants that are present and additional, repeat applications to control germinating nutlets may be necessary at a later time. As with the products available to homeowners, these herbicides perform best when treatments are made on young, actively growing nutsedge plants.
Homeowners should make note of the control strategies that are successful. Because of the seed and tubers that remain in the soil, repeat infestations in subsequent years should be anticipated.
The most effective turfgrass herbicides currently available for yellow nutsedge control are "Basagran" (bentazon) and "Manage" (halosulfuron). These herbicides are not sold through typical retail outlets. Homeowners desiring applications of either of these two chemical controls are encouraged to contact a licensed, commercial lawn applicator. Even with the use of these herbicides, a few weeks time may be required to eliminate the plants that are present and additional, repeat applications to control germinating nutlets may be necessary at a later time. As with the products available to homeowners, these herbicides perform best when treatments are made on young, actively growing nutsedge plants.
Homeowners should make note of the control strategies that are successful. Because of the seed and tubers that remain in the soil, repeat infestations in subsequent years should be anticipated.
Thursday, June 19, 2008
Mowers For Hire
For anybody who is interested, I found a very reasonable mowing service, the did my lawn the first time today and it looks great. They are flexible so they will let me reduce the number of mowings as the heat of summer hits...paying $35/mow. I decided to be lazy this year since the baby is keeping us pretty busy!!!
Contact is Nick Linberg
513.304.5447
twoteachersandamower@yahoo.com (somewhat slow on returning email, but you will eventually hear back...my email's seem to be going to his spam box even though it is one yahoo acct to another).
Contact is Nick Linberg
513.304.5447
twoteachersandamower@yahoo.com (somewhat slow on returning email, but you will eventually hear back...my email's seem to be going to his spam box even though it is one yahoo acct to another).
Tuesday, June 17, 2008
Farmer's Markets
I found a list of local Farmer's Markets in case you want to eat locally,but not pick your own. Of course there is always Findlay Market, downtown Cincinnati! I hope this link works! If you go to Lebanon's look for Dan Berger. He has frozen blue gill and maple syrup from his farm. He is a retired lawyer, he does private catering for P&G and teaches classes at Cookware's. He's a colorful man.
Click here!
Click here!
Thursday, June 12, 2008
more lawn thoughts
Dormant Lawn
Under conditions of stress, like extremely hot and dry weather, grass will turn brown and go dormant as a natural survival mechanism. If your grass is dormant, there is nothing you can do right now. Dormant grass will not respond to fertilizing. Fertilize your lawn when the rain returns and your grass begins to recover. Once green, feeding your lawn will strengthen its root system and give it the nutrients it needs to recover faster.
Recovering Lawn
If your grass is beginning to recover from drought conditions, fertilize it now. Feeding now will help restore your lawn back to health by giving it the nutrients it needs to stay strong and healthy. It will also protect your yard against heat and drought in the future. A well-fed lawn just doesn't get as thirsty.
Healthy Lawn
If your lawn is green and hasn't been affected by heat and drought, continue your normal feeding and watering schedule. A well-fed lawn maintains a stronger, deeper root system that protects against the effects of heat and drought and uses available moisture in the soil more efficiently.
Under conditions of stress, like extremely hot and dry weather, grass will turn brown and go dormant as a natural survival mechanism. If your grass is dormant, there is nothing you can do right now. Dormant grass will not respond to fertilizing. Fertilize your lawn when the rain returns and your grass begins to recover. Once green, feeding your lawn will strengthen its root system and give it the nutrients it needs to recover faster.
Recovering Lawn
If your grass is beginning to recover from drought conditions, fertilize it now. Feeding now will help restore your lawn back to health by giving it the nutrients it needs to stay strong and healthy. It will also protect your yard against heat and drought in the future. A well-fed lawn just doesn't get as thirsty.
Healthy Lawn
If your lawn is green and hasn't been affected by heat and drought, continue your normal feeding and watering schedule. A well-fed lawn maintains a stronger, deeper root system that protects against the effects of heat and drought and uses available moisture in the soil more efficiently.
Wednesday, June 11, 2008
Beautify Our Neighborhood: Prune Your Trees
TREES IN NEED OF PRUNING
Pruning your trees not only beautifies the neighborhood, it is also healthy for your trees by focusing their growth. Please go out and take a look at your trees (and your neighbors) and prune where needed.
As you can see above, many of the trees along Summer Field and Spring Field Dr are in deperate need or pruning. Lower branchs should be removed to both improve the appearance of the tree and provide clearance on the sidewalks for people. Some of us may have the impression these trees are cared for by the grounds maintenance service, but that is not the case. Rick has posted some great tips on the blog on how to prune your trees.
Many of the homeowners have done a great job maintaining there trees and keeping the sidewalk clear. See below
GREAT EXAMPLES OF PRUNED TREES
Pruning your trees not only beautifies the neighborhood, it is also healthy for your trees by focusing their growth. Please go out and take a look at your trees (and your neighbors) and prune where needed.
THANKS!
Monday, June 9, 2008
amendments
Fellow homeowners, I am pleased to announce that all five of the amendment proposals have passed by the required 39 yes votes. The HOA board will work over the next few weeks to file the results with the city as well as send out some formal communication but I wanted to take this opportunity to thank those of you that voted and to report the results.
As a reminder, here are the top lines of these amendments.
As a reminder, here are the top lines of these amendments.
- Allow for two installments of the HOA annual assessment with a $15 surcharge.
- Require a 55% assenting vote to levy future special assessments for capital expenditures.
- Outline specific landscape and maintenance requirements and provide for enforcement thereof.
- Require majority consent for future amendment proposals.
- Not allow registered sex offenders to take future residence in Mason Fields.
Sunday, June 8, 2008
tree pruning
Producing strong structure should be the emphasis when pruning young trees. As trees mature, the aim of pruning will shift to maintaining tree structure, form, health and appearance. In our neighborhood, we have trees in need of "crown raising". These are the trees between the street and sidewalks. Crown raising should be done for a number of reasons but in this case for safety. We want people to be able to walk on our sidewalks without risking a poke in the eye from a low hanging branch.
1. Crown Thinning - Crown thinning, primarily for hardwoods, is the selective removal of branches to increase light penetration and air movement throughout the crown of a tree. The intent is to maintain or develop a tree's structure and form. To avoid unnecessary stress and prevent excessive production of epicormic sprouts, no more than one-quarter of the living crown should be removed at a time. If it is necessary to remove more, it should be done over successive years.
Crown thinning - branches to be removed are shaded in blue; pruning cuts should be made at the red lines. No more than one-fourth of the living branches should be removed at one time.
2. Crown Raising - Crown raising is the practice of removing branches from the bottom of the crown of a tree to provide clearance for pedestrians, vehicles, buildings, lines of site, or to develop a clear stem for timber production. Also, removing lower branches on white pines can prevent blister rust. For street trees the minimum clearance is often specified by municipal ordinance. After pruning, the ratio of the living crown to total tree height should be at least two-thirds (e.g., a 12 m tree should have living branches on at least the upper 8 m).
On young trees "temporary" branches may be retained along the stem to encourage taper and protect trees from vandalism and sun scald. Less vigorous shoots should be selected as temporary branches and should be about 10 to 15 cm apart along the stem. They should be pruned annually to slow their growth and should be removed eventually.
Crown raising - branches to be removed are shaded in blue; pruning cuts should be made where indicated with red lines. The ratio of live crown to total tree height should be at least two-thirds.
1. Crown Thinning - Crown thinning, primarily for hardwoods, is the selective removal of branches to increase light penetration and air movement throughout the crown of a tree. The intent is to maintain or develop a tree's structure and form. To avoid unnecessary stress and prevent excessive production of epicormic sprouts, no more than one-quarter of the living crown should be removed at a time. If it is necessary to remove more, it should be done over successive years.Crown thinning - branches to be removed are shaded in blue; pruning cuts should be made at the red lines. No more than one-fourth of the living branches should be removed at one time.
2. Crown Raising - Crown raising is the practice of removing branches from the bottom of the crown of a tree to provide clearance for pedestrians, vehicles, buildings, lines of site, or to develop a clear stem for timber production. Also, removing lower branches on white pines can prevent blister rust. For street trees the minimum clearance is often specified by municipal ordinance. After pruning, the ratio of the living crown to total tree height should be at least two-thirds (e.g., a 12 m tree should have living branches on at least the upper 8 m).On young trees "temporary" branches may be retained along the stem to encourage taper and protect trees from vandalism and sun scald. Less vigorous shoots should be selected as temporary branches and should be about 10 to 15 cm apart along the stem. They should be pruned annually to slow their growth and should be removed eventually.
Crown raising - branches to be removed are shaded in blue; pruning cuts should be made where indicated with red lines. The ratio of live crown to total tree height should be at least two-thirds.
Wednesday, June 4, 2008
It's Berry Picking Time!
I grew up in this area, and have always berry picked. I thought I'd include some places to pick. Right now strawberries are ready, and after 6/20 Black raspberries will be ripe. Here are some Local U-Pick places:
My Favorite: Dale Stokes Berry Farm, 2822 Center Road, Wilmington. 937-382-4004. 8 a.m.-dark daily. Late May to July: strawberries. Late-June to early July: black red, purple and yellow, August and September: red, purple and yellow raspberries. Containers provided. I-71 to Ohio 73; drive east to Williams Road; turn left, then right on Center Road to farm. Visit stokes berryfarm.com. I think they'll have blackberries,too but will ask when we go up Sunday!
Iron's Fruit Farm is the closest. They also have a fun corn maze in the fall!Irons Fruit Farm, 1640 Stubbs Mill Road, Lebanon. 513-932-2853. Call for picking times and availability. Mid-June: blueberries. Mid-July: Green beans, tomatoes. Mid-August: red raspberries. Mid-September: apples. Late September and October: pumpkins and gourds. Containers provided. I-71 to Ohio 123; go north toward Lebanon; turn left on Stubbs Mill Road and watch for signs about 2 miles on the left. Visit www.ironsfruit farm.com.
My Favorite: Dale Stokes Berry Farm, 2822 Center Road, Wilmington. 937-382-4004. 8 a.m.-dark daily. Late May to July: strawberries. Late-June to early July: black red, purple and yellow, August and September: red, purple and yellow raspberries. Containers provided. I-71 to Ohio 73; drive east to Williams Road; turn left, then right on Center Road to farm. Visit stokes berryfarm.com. I think they'll have blackberries,too but will ask when we go up Sunday!
Iron's Fruit Farm is the closest. They also have a fun corn maze in the fall!Irons Fruit Farm, 1640 Stubbs Mill Road, Lebanon. 513-932-2853. Call for picking times and availability. Mid-June: blueberries. Mid-July: Green beans, tomatoes. Mid-August: red raspberries. Mid-September: apples. Late September and October: pumpkins and gourds. Containers provided. I-71 to Ohio 123; go north toward Lebanon; turn left on Stubbs Mill Road and watch for signs about 2 miles on the left. Visit www.ironsfruit farm.com.
A&M Farm Orchard, 22141 Ohio 251, Midland, 513-875-2500. 8 a.m.-8 p.m. Monday-Saturday; 1-8 p.m. Sunday. Call for fall hours. Early June: strawberries. September to October: apples and grapes. Containers provided. I-275 to Ohio 28; through Blanchester to Midland in southeast Clinton County; south on U.S. 68 to Ohio 251. Farm is 1 mile east.
Barn 'n' Bunk Farm Market, Ohio 73 and Wayne Madison Road, Trenton. 513-988-9211. Call for hours and availability. Late May: snow peas. Late June to August: half runner beans, stringless beans, greasy beans and Roma beans. I-75 to Ohio 63; go west on Ohio 63 to Ohio 4; north on Ohio 4 to Ohio 73; west on Ohio 73. Farm is near Ohio 73 and Wayne-Madison Road.
Bergefurd's Farm Market & Greenhouse, 234 Ohio 350 West. Corner of U.S. 68 South and Ohio 350 in Clinton County. 937-383-2133. 9 a.m.-5 p.m. Monday-Friday; 9 a.m.-6 p.m. Saturday and Sunday: call first, as berries are limited. Late May/early June: strawberries. Late September: pumpkins. Montgomery Road north through Morrow to Ohio 350; turn right. Or, take Ohio 28 through Blanchester to U.S. 68; turn left.
Bet-ter Farms, 1971 Sicily Road, Mount Orab. 937-446-2593. Opens 8 a.m. Monday-Saturday; closed Sunday. Call for closing hours and picking status later in the day. Early June: strawberries. Containers provided. I-275 to Ohio 32; go east to Sicily Road past Mount Orab; turn left. Farm is a little more than 3 miles, in southwest Highland County.
Blooms & Berries, 9669 Ohio 48, Loveland. 513-697-9173. Daily. Call for hours, picking times and availability. Late May: strawberries. October: pumpkins. I-71 to Ohio 48 exit (Lebanon); south on Ohio 48, through Maineville. Farm is on the right, about 2 miles south of Maineville.
Blooms & Berries, 10900 Loveland Madeira Road, Loveland. 513-697-9173. 11 a.m.-6 p.m. Tuesday-Sunday, July 1-Sept. 1.
Hidden Valley Fruit Farm, 5474 N. Ohio 48, Lebanon. 513-932-1869. Call for availability and picking times. Early to mid-June: strawberries. Mid-late June: blueberries. Early July: early apples. Late June to mid-July: red raspberries. Mid-July: green beans. August: sweet corn and pears. August-September: apples and Concord, Fredonia and Niagara grapes. September-October: apples and pumpkins. I-75 to Ohio 122 exit (Middletown); east 7 miles to Ohio 48; north 2 miles to farm.
Robert Rothschild Farm, 3143 East Ohio 36, Urbana. 800-356-8933. Tours available. Call for hours and availability. Mid-August to mid-September: red raspberries. I-75 to I-675 (near Dayton); east toward Columbus; take Ohio 68 north and follow signs to Urbana, in Champaign County; at the traffic circle in town, turn right on Ohio 36. Farm is on the right, about 3 miles east of Urbana.
Rouster's Apple House, 1986 Ohio 131, Milford. 513-625-5504. Call ahead for picking times and availability. Late June to August: blueberries. Late July: thornless blackberries. Containers provided. I-275 to exit 59-A (Milford Parkway); follow parkway onto Ohio 131. Farm is 6 miles beyond intersection of Ohio 131 and U.S. 50. Blueberry plantation is on the right, 500 yards before the apple house.
Spaeth Farm, 1469 South Ohio 741, Lebanon. 513-932-2151. Call ahead for availability and picking times. Early June: strawberries Mid-July: green beans and sweet corn. I-71 to exit 25 (Kings Island); left on Ohio 741. Farm is on the left, about 5 miles north. From I-75 north, take exit 29 and turn right on Ohio 63; turn right on Ohio 741. Farm is on the right.
Strawberry Patch, 6815 Hamilton-Mason Road, West Chester Township. 513-777-3642. Call for hours and availability. Through June: strawberries. I-75 to Ohio 129; go west to Cincinnati-Dayton Road; turn left and follow to Hamilton-Mason Road; turn right. Farm is less than 1 mile on the left.
Windmill Farm Market, 1454 E. Ohio 73, Springboro. 937-885-3965. Call for availability. October: pumpkins. I-71 to Ohio 73; follow signs. Farm is on the right, 5 miles west of Waynesville and 3 miles east of Springboro.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)