I have stopped a few cars this week for driving a little to fast on our streat. I hate doing it, I don't want to be "that guy" who is always asking people to slow down. We have soooo many young children in our community and now have a welcomed additional six children.
Let's please try to watch our speed.
For the most part it is not homeowners here. I is delivery people "pizza" or people that are turning around.
I am debating on calling the police to see about speed humps being put in. Any one have any thoughts? I am guessing that the speed humps will only happen if enough complaint calls are received. Let me know what you think.
The last guy that I asked to slow down last night actually got out of his car and yelled the speed limit it 25 and that's what I am doing. He had been drinking and was delivering a paper of some sort. luckily Mike was outside.
John
Sunday, June 29, 2008
Thursday, June 26, 2008
sedgehammer is in!!!!
I just received my supply of Sedgehammer for killing nutsedge. My cost was $150 including shipping handling, etc.. I am prepared to sell a 1 gallon application for $5. That includes Sedgehammer and the required non-ionic surfactant. You need to supply the 1 gallon sprayer and water.
One gallon covers 1000 sq. ft. but none of us have solid nutsedge. I did my whole yard with about half a gallon. I think it will take another couple of applications before it is under control but eventually 1 gallon should last an entire season.
John/Rich - since you already have your own surfactant, I can give you a break and charge you only $7.50 per gallon.
One gallon covers 1000 sq. ft. but none of us have solid nutsedge. I did my whole yard with about half a gallon. I think it will take another couple of applications before it is under control but eventually 1 gallon should last an entire season.
John/Rich - since you already have your own surfactant, I can give you a break and charge you only $7.50 per gallon.
What You Need To Know When you Are New To The Area
We have a few new families moving in this summer. I thought I'd start a post and other's could add onto it with their thoughts. What do you need to know about this area when you move in?
Trash pick up is Monday, but they come early Monday am, so consider putting it out Sunday pm. They do trash pick up on holidays. Recycling bins are free and available at the Mason City Building (across from the Community Center.) They will give you 2 if you ask, but the recycling guy told me they are instructed to pick up the second if neither bin is that full.
You live near the Little Miami Scenic Bike Trail. Family fun, but not wise to go it alone. King's Island and the Zoo are good memberships. Krohn Conservatory is free and wonderful to see spring flowers end of January!
3 Major grocery stores: Bigg's, Meijer's, and Kroger's.BUT Jungle Jim's is a blast! Kids love it. I encourage you to go early (8-9a) with kids so it's less crowded and they can enjoy it more. Oh,and take me, Karen Osler. I can show you the cool stuff.
Cincinnatians say things like PONY KEG which is the local stop and shop . "UDF" is United Dairy Farmers which is also a pony keg......... We also say "Please?" when we want something repeated.
Best food unique to our area: Skyline Chili, Graeter's ice cream and I think the Precinct Restaurant/Jeff Ruby's Steakhouse. The best restaurant to see the city is the Riverview (in N. Ky), which revolves around- they have a nice Sunday brunch.
The Level 1 Trauma Centers are Univ. of Cincinnati and Miami Valley. Level 3 is Bethesda North. Children's Hospital is THE place to take your kids, known worldwide. They have an Urgent Care at Children's Mason 6p-11p. A new 24/7 Children's will be open in West Chester in August. John and I have both tried the Doctor's Urgent Care on Tylersville with satisfaction. Arrow Springs ER is 2 exits up- SR 48 North. Same docs and nurses as B-North but no waits and fastest way to get a bed at North. That being said I am forever partial to Christ Hospital. What you weren't asking?
Okay- help me out. What do you think our new neighbors need to know?
Trash pick up is Monday, but they come early Monday am, so consider putting it out Sunday pm. They do trash pick up on holidays. Recycling bins are free and available at the Mason City Building (across from the Community Center.) They will give you 2 if you ask, but the recycling guy told me they are instructed to pick up the second if neither bin is that full.
You live near the Little Miami Scenic Bike Trail. Family fun, but not wise to go it alone. King's Island and the Zoo are good memberships. Krohn Conservatory is free and wonderful to see spring flowers end of January!
3 Major grocery stores: Bigg's, Meijer's, and Kroger's.BUT Jungle Jim's is a blast! Kids love it. I encourage you to go early (8-9a) with kids so it's less crowded and they can enjoy it more. Oh,and take me, Karen Osler. I can show you the cool stuff.
Cincinnatians say things like PONY KEG which is the local stop and shop . "UDF" is United Dairy Farmers which is also a pony keg......... We also say "Please?" when we want something repeated.
Best food unique to our area: Skyline Chili, Graeter's ice cream and I think the Precinct Restaurant/Jeff Ruby's Steakhouse. The best restaurant to see the city is the Riverview (in N. Ky), which revolves around- they have a nice Sunday brunch.
The Level 1 Trauma Centers are Univ. of Cincinnati and Miami Valley. Level 3 is Bethesda North. Children's Hospital is THE place to take your kids, known worldwide. They have an Urgent Care at Children's Mason 6p-11p. A new 24/7 Children's will be open in West Chester in August. John and I have both tried the Doctor's Urgent Care on Tylersville with satisfaction. Arrow Springs ER is 2 exits up- SR 48 North. Same docs and nurses as B-North but no waits and fastest way to get a bed at North. That being said I am forever partial to Christ Hospital. What you weren't asking?
Okay- help me out. What do you think our new neighbors need to know?
Tuesday, June 24, 2008
Extreme Home Makeover is Coming!
I got really excited that someone in our town would be blessed with this chance. I got SO excited I signed up to volunteer for TWO night shifts, thinking those would be the hardest to staff, but probably the best time to get things done. Jim just laughed and said "This isn't a hospital, it's a construction site! You are going to be with Joe and Larry at 3am!" I hope Joe and Larry are hungry, I'll bake them something. I signed up for 6p-6a 7/14 & 15.....in case anyone wants to join me? No? They have shifts round the clock from 7/9-7/17. Oh and Rick they won't let me wear a fireman's t-shirt.( I am so throwing you a bone here!)
Here's the link:
http://emhe.duke-energy.com/default.asp
Here's the link:
http://emhe.duke-energy.com/default.asp
Sunday, June 22, 2008
more on nutsedge
Klaus's ... thanks for the post on Nutsedge.
I started to add a comment but thought some folks may not notice it. This post is to build on yours.
0.9 g makes 1 gallon of spray. As bad as my yard and a neighbor's was, we used a full gallon in one application. John Conyer whose yard is in great shape claims that once under control, a gallon should last a season.
I have ordered about 30 applications worth - should arrive this week. The larger quantity was far cheaper than ordering individually.
Once it arrives, I will do the math but I think I can sell it for $10 (or less) for a gallon's worth.
So, if you have a sprayer, contact me at rianniello {at} gmail {dot} com ... of course do the right thing with the "at" and "dot".
I started to add a comment but thought some folks may not notice it. This post is to build on yours.
0.9 g makes 1 gallon of spray. As bad as my yard and a neighbor's was, we used a full gallon in one application. John Conyer whose yard is in great shape claims that once under control, a gallon should last a season.
I have ordered about 30 applications worth - should arrive this week. The larger quantity was far cheaper than ordering individually.
Once it arrives, I will do the math but I think I can sell it for $10 (or less) for a gallon's worth.
So, if you have a sprayer, contact me at rianniello {at} gmail {dot} com ... of course do the right thing with the "at" and "dot".
Nutsedge
If people have noticed a light green "grass" popping up around the neighborhood, it is a nasty weed called Nutsedge. Please read the information below from the OSU Extension office.
You can find treatment for this weed at:
(type nutsedge in the product search and look for a product called SedgeHammer...it isn't a cheap product, but the amounts shown are not a "one time" treatment but last for awhile by storing the unused product in a sprayer for use as needed)
Description
Yellow Nutsedge (Cyperus esculentus L.) is a common weed found in many home lawns and other turfgrass areas in Ohio. The color, growth habit, and rapid growth rate make yellow nutsedge a prominent distraction in the aesthetics of high quality lawns. In addition to home lawns, this weed is also a significant problem in the turfgrass areas of parks, industrial grounds, athletic fields, and golf courses.
Plant Description
Yellow nutsedge is distinctive and relatively easy to identify. The stems are erect, triangular-shaped and yellow-green in color. The leaves are also yellow-green, wide (0.38 to 0.50 inch) bladed with a thick mid-vein and a very waxy covering. The shallow, fibrous root system often produces many nut-like tubers, which are underground food storage organs. Each of these tubers can germinate and produce new plants. Each new plant can also produce rhizomes which can give rise to additional new plants.
Figure 1. Yellow nutsedge
Yellow nutsedge is a warm season perennial plant. The above ground foliage does not survive winters in Ohio. However, as soils warm during the late spring and early summer period, germination of tubers and seed produced by plants from previous years are capable of producing new yellow nutsedge plants. Heavy infestations of this weed in lawns and other turfgrass areas usually become readily apparent in July and August.
Figure 2. Yellow nutsedge rhizomes
Growth Habit
The color, texture, and growth habit of yellow nutsedge all contribute to aesthetic incompatibility with the desirable lawn turfgrasses. In addition to the aesthetic differences, the leaves of this weed have a rapid rate of vertical elongation resulting in their frequent protrusion above the canopy of the desirable grasses. Combined, these distractions make lawns unattractive during the mid to late summer period. Yellow nutsedge thrives under warm, wet conditions and can often be found in low, damp areas of lawns. This weed is often most problematic during summers with above normal rainfall. Management and environmental factors, including improper mowing, nutrient deficiencies, insect damage, drought stress, etc., which stress or reduce the density or competitive ability of the desirable turfgrasses, will often lead to increased populations of yellow nutsedge.
Management Options
Unlike most lawn weeds, yellow nutsedge is not controlled with applications of traditional annual grass weed or broadleaf weed control products. This weed is a member of the sedge family and requires the use of very specific herbicides to achieve satisfactory control. Regardless of the control strategy selected, the plan should be initiated when the weeds are young and immature. Eradication from lawns, although difficult, can be accomplished through the following approaches.
Unlike most lawn weeds, yellow nutsedge is not controlled with applications of traditional annual grass weed or broadleaf weed control products. This weed is a member of the sedge family and requires the use of very specific herbicides to achieve satisfactory control. Regardless of the control strategy selected, the plan should be initiated when the weeds are young and immature. Eradication from lawns, although difficult, can be accomplished through the following approaches.
Hand Pulling
If only a few yellow nutsedge plants are present, hand pulling may be the best way to selectively eradicate the weeds. Begin physically removing the weeds as soon as the weed plants are observed. Removal of the entire plant including root systems is necessary. Pulling mature plants is difficult. These plants will often break off at the soil surface allowing regrowth and tuber development to continue. After removal, homeowners are advised to recheck the area periodically for regrowth. This approach is effective only if performed on a regular basis.
If only a few yellow nutsedge plants are present, hand pulling may be the best way to selectively eradicate the weeds. Begin physically removing the weeds as soon as the weed plants are observed. Removal of the entire plant including root systems is necessary. Pulling mature plants is difficult. These plants will often break off at the soil surface allowing regrowth and tuber development to continue. After removal, homeowners are advised to recheck the area periodically for regrowth. This approach is effective only if performed on a regular basis.
Homeowner Treatment
Where large patches of nutsedge are present, control through the use of herbicides may be the only satisfactory option. Homeowners may purchase, through retailers, herbicides to eliminate this weed. The performance of these products is dependent on the user accurately following the "Directions For Use." Normally, two applications are required with the repeat application made 10 to 14 days following the initial application. When applying control products, avoid mowing three to five days before and after treatment. To ensure adequate herbicide absorption, do not water the lawn for at least 24 to 48 hours after product application. Applications should ideally be initiated in the late spring/early summer when the nutsedge is young, actively growing, and is most sensitive to herbicidal control. Once this weed matures, control is difficult regardless of the treatment schedule.
Where large patches of nutsedge are present, control through the use of herbicides may be the only satisfactory option. Homeowners may purchase, through retailers, herbicides to eliminate this weed. The performance of these products is dependent on the user accurately following the "Directions For Use." Normally, two applications are required with the repeat application made 10 to 14 days following the initial application. When applying control products, avoid mowing three to five days before and after treatment. To ensure adequate herbicide absorption, do not water the lawn for at least 24 to 48 hours after product application. Applications should ideally be initiated in the late spring/early summer when the nutsedge is young, actively growing, and is most sensitive to herbicidal control. Once this weed matures, control is difficult regardless of the treatment schedule.
Professional Application
The most effective turfgrass herbicides currently available for yellow nutsedge control are "Basagran" (bentazon) and "Manage" (halosulfuron). These herbicides are not sold through typical retail outlets. Homeowners desiring applications of either of these two chemical controls are encouraged to contact a licensed, commercial lawn applicator. Even with the use of these herbicides, a few weeks time may be required to eliminate the plants that are present and additional, repeat applications to control germinating nutlets may be necessary at a later time. As with the products available to homeowners, these herbicides perform best when treatments are made on young, actively growing nutsedge plants.
Homeowners should make note of the control strategies that are successful. Because of the seed and tubers that remain in the soil, repeat infestations in subsequent years should be anticipated.
The most effective turfgrass herbicides currently available for yellow nutsedge control are "Basagran" (bentazon) and "Manage" (halosulfuron). These herbicides are not sold through typical retail outlets. Homeowners desiring applications of either of these two chemical controls are encouraged to contact a licensed, commercial lawn applicator. Even with the use of these herbicides, a few weeks time may be required to eliminate the plants that are present and additional, repeat applications to control germinating nutlets may be necessary at a later time. As with the products available to homeowners, these herbicides perform best when treatments are made on young, actively growing nutsedge plants.
Homeowners should make note of the control strategies that are successful. Because of the seed and tubers that remain in the soil, repeat infestations in subsequent years should be anticipated.
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