Tuesday, December 30, 2008
ceiling spray
Due to the roof repair we just had a small bit of ceiling over a nail popped out on the inside of the house, that is we had nice white ceiling except a single spot where you could see a nail head. I bought some Zinsser stain ceiling paint that took care of the problem. Anyway, now I have a whole spray can of the stuff. If anyone needs to use a bit of it, let me know, it's yours for the taking.
Thursday, December 18, 2008
congratulations karen
Friday, December 12, 2008
fast food flash
The non-profit Cancer Project ranks the five most unhealthy items on these so-called "value menus."
At the top of the list? Jack in the Box's $1 junior bacon cheeseburger, which has 23 grams of fat (8 grams of saturated fat), 55 milligrams of cholesterol, and 860 milligrams of sodium and just one gram of fiber.
In second-worst place, the 89-cent Taco Bell cheesy double beef burrito, with 460 calories, 20 grams of fat and a whopping 1,620 milligrams of sodium.
In third-worst place was the one-dollar Burger King breakfast sausage biscuit, with 27 grams of fat, including 15 grams of saturated fat and over 1,000 milligrams of sodium.
Fourth worst went to the one-dollar McDonald’s McDouble, which contains 19 grams of fat and 65 milligrams of cholesterol.
Last, and least-worst, was the Wendy’s junior bacon cheeseburger, for $1.53, with 310 calories and 16 grams of fat.
Thursday, December 11, 2008
Friday, December 5, 2008
Great new restaurant!
Monday, November 24, 2008
warren county fun
Saturday, November 15, 2008
HOA Meeting Notes
Mason Fields Annual Meeting
Wednesday 12 November 2008
- The following items were covered and discussed at the annual meeting:
Reviewed initial questions which included a request of the status of the amendments which had been routed for approval. It was shared that all amendments had passed, and in case it had already not been shared widely, that the HOA would try to include confirmation in one of the next letters to the neighborhood of the status of all passed and that they have also been filed with the city. - As the amendments were discussed, a key focus area was the amendment which discussed general external home / lawn care, and it was confirmed that there is a standard for how outages should be managed.
- A power point presentation was reviewed which summarized the current financial status and budget of the neighborhood. It was shared that HOA due for 2009 would be increasing from ~$481 to ~$607 due to balancing the budget and no longer planning to use reserve funds. Based on this budget, future years should increase at a standard inflation rate.
- Some savings opportunities that were discussed as a group were:
- Merger with Village Lakes – previous HOA members shared that this had been evaluated and that Village Lakes did not benefit from a merger.
- Irrigation savings – through proper timing programming
- Irrigation – share with the waterworks that we should not be charged for sewage
- Electric – potential to winterize the pump on fountain vs. paying electric. Dale Rook shared that it would be better to just leave the fountain running.
- Evaluate what TR Gear is actually maintaining for neighborhood and determine what can be reduced / eliminated (ie. mowing strip behind path in back of homes if not required).
- Front of the neighborhood “beautification” was discussed. There are ~$10M reserve funds remaining to support improvements from city money. A decision was made to wait until all construction was complete before any additional money would be spent. In addition, the group leaned toward providing trees to people’s yards vs. the brim in the front since there is not an irrigation system. In addition, any trees planted on the brim are under the power lines and will be cut accordingly by Duke Energy as they grow closer to the lines.
- A group of individuals volunteered to investigate opportunities for the neighborhood to get together to do work vs. hiring it out (ie. laying bark, planting flowers, etc). This will be worked through the blog to get people to volunteer and communicate.
Thursday, November 13, 2008
living wage calculator
Typical Expenses
Wages Needed
Typical Actual Wages
Wednesday, November 12, 2008
Tonight 7pm
From the earlier post:
This is to invite you to the Mason Fields Home Owner Association Meeting on 12 November from 7:00 PM – 8:30 PM. The meeting will be in room 2029 of the Mason Municipal Center, 6000 Mason-Montgomery Road.
The annual meeting was formerly held in February but due to continued increases in HOA dues the board determined it best to review the annual budget prior to announcing next year’s fees.
We also moved this forward in hopes that one or more of you would volunteer to use 2009 to identify money saving options to apply to 2010. We will not use the meeting to develop solutions but to agree if someone(s) of you wants to drive out options to present in time for the 2010 budget process.
I look forward to your active participation in this.
Tuesday, November 4, 2008
reasons to vote
- Ben & Jerry's: Free scoop of ice cream between 5-8pm. Originally, materials stated you'd need some form of proof you voted (like an "I voted" sticker), but current materials just spell out "Free scoops!" (locate)
- Books-A-Million: Free cup of coffee after showing your "I voted" sticker. (locate)
- California Tortilla: Free taco for showing "I voted" sticker. (locate)
- Chick-fil-A: "Several hundred" of 1,400 Chick-fil-A restaurants are handing out chicken sandwiches (the kind normally $2.70) to adults with proof of voting. (locate)
- Krispy Kreme: Free star-shaped doughnut with "patriotic sprinkles" (i.e. red, white, and blue) for "all retail customers with an 'I Voted' sticker." USA Today reports that 85 of 231 Krispy Kreme locations will participate. (locate)
- Shane's Rib Shack: A free "Celebrate America Meal"—3-piece chicken tenders, fries, and 20-ounce drink—to the first 300 customers at participating locations, according to their press release. (locate)
- Starbucks: Free tall coffee at "any Starbucks." "Tell us you voted" seems to be the bargaining chip, according to their recent TV ads. (locate)
- Vote & Vax: National project by non-profits to offer free flu vaccinations on election day. (locate)
Monday, October 13, 2008
re-thread edge trimmer
Monday, October 6, 2008
construction update
Sunday, October 5, 2008
covenant amendments
Saturday, October 4, 2008
More News.....?
Irons Fruit Farm Corn Maze
This is a picture of our 2008 Corn Maze!
Vote '08 - U Decide! DEMS or GOP
Our maze for the 2008 season is devoted to our biggest right as an American citizen - get out and vote in November! But before then come out to the farm and work your way through our maze of politics!
The Maze is cut into a 12 acre field of corn (that's almost 12 football fields) and is open on weekends in September and October.
http://ironsfruitfarm.com/
Friday, October 3, 2008
heating & cooling
Anyway, for what it's worth, we use Willis Heating & Air Conditioning. They can be reached at 513.752.2512.
It's not cheap since we have two AC and two heating units but this year they found a bird was building a nest in one of the flues so it pays out.
Friday, September 19, 2008
Mason Art Show this Sunday
Wednesday, September 17, 2008
hoa annual meeting
Dear Neighbor,
This is to invite you to the Mason Fields Home Owner Association Meeting on 12 November from 7:00 PM – 8:30 PM. The meeting will be in room 2029 of the Mason Municipal Center, 6000 Mason-Montgomery Road.
The annual meeting was formerly held in February but due to continued increases in HOA dues the board determined it best to review the annual budget prior to announcing next year’s fees.
We also moved this forward in hopes that one or more of you would volunteer to use 2009 to identify money saving options to apply to 2010. We will not use the meeting to develop solutions but to agree if someone(s) of you wants to drive out options to present in time for the 2010 budget process.
I look forward to your active participation in this.
Sunday, September 14, 2008
roofing
Contact info ...
By E-Mail:
info@deerparkroofing.com
By Fax:
513-891-9152
By Phone:
513-891-9151
By Mail:
4268 Matson Ave (on the corner of Matson & Blue Ash)
Cincinnati, OH 45236
Friday, September 12, 2008
what seed?
To overseed, mow grass closely, then loosen top 1/4 inch of soil in bare and thin areas. To seed a new lawn, loosen top 2 to 3 inches of soil to provide a lodging place for the seeds. Distribute the seed evenly. Apply Scotts Starter® Fertilizer to increase seeding success and then water thoroughly. WATERING IS CRUCIAL TO SEEDING SUCCESS. Keep the top 1/2 inch of soil damp by watering twice daily until all seedlings are up. Continue to water once or twice a day until the lawn is established (6 to 8 weeks). In 4-6 weeks, make an application of Scotts Turf Builder Lawn Fertilizer. This helps the plants knit together to form a thick, green carpet of grass. Do not apply a weed control product until after at least three mowings. Mow new seedlings as soon as they reach normal mowing height.
Wednesday, September 10, 2008
4 reasons for fall overseeding
- Cooler air and warm soil - ideal for faster germination
- More days of ideal growing weather
- More light, due to leaves falling from trees
- Less competition from weeds
Monday, September 8, 2008
5 Things...................
Five Things I'd Like To Eat Again (It's too morbid to bring death into this)
1. Trio's blue cheese apple pizza.
2. Rita Heikenfeld's White Bean Italian Soup (Email me for the recipe)
3. Giuseppe's Pizza from North Canton....it's worth the drive!
4. A French 2 Step sundae from Aglameisi Brothers in Oakley (2 scoops vanilla with chocolate whipped cream and chocolate syrup drizzle)
5. A steak made by a Jeff Ruby Restaurant (I prefer The Precinct)
Now it's your turn. What is your favorite?
Tuesday, September 2, 2008
so you got thatch?
Thatch is a dense layer of living and dead organic matter on the soil surface.
Thatch in lawns is often misunderstood; both its cause and control. Some lawns have serious thatch problems while others do not. Thatch is a layer of living and dead organic matter that occurs between the green matter and the soil surface. Excessive thatch (over 1/2 inch thick) creates a favorable environment for pests and disease, an unfavorable growing environment for grass roots, and can interfere with some lawn care practices.
The primary component of thatch is turfgrass stems and roots. It accumulates as these plant parts buildup faster than they breakdown. Thatch problems are due to a combination of biological, cultural, and environmental factors. Cultural practices can have a big impact on thatch. For example, heavy nitrogen fertilizer applications or overwatering frequently contribute to thatch, because they cause the lawn to grow excessively fast. Avoid overfertilizing and overwatering. Despite popular belief, short clippings dropped on the lawn after mowing are not the cause of thatch buildup. Clippings are very high in water content and breakdown rapidly when returned to lawns after mowing, assuming lawns are mowed on a regular basis (not removing more than one-third of the leaf blade).
Excessive thatch accumulation has lead to lawn rooting into thatch rather than soil.
As thatch levels accumulate to greater than 1/2 inch, lawn problems may begin, and the thatch needs to be controlled. Thatch may be torn out with a dethatcher or vertical mower, but will most likely return unless the cause is corrected. Mechanical dethatching is also very destructive to the lawn because roots are in thatch instead of soil, so plants tear out easily. Overseeding is usually required afterwards. For this reason, it's best to tear out thatch in late August for optimum reseeding timing.
Core aerating helps degrade thatch and also helps solve some of the causes of thatch.
Core aerification, followed by topdressing are two methods that will generally correct the reasons thatch is accumulating. Core aerifying machines will pull up small soil cores to the surface that are left there to act like topdressing. The holes created help solve problems such as compaction or poor drainage. Topdressing is simply adding a thin layer(1/8 to 1/4 inch) of compatible soil over the thatch, which adds microorganisms to help in breakdown.
Aerifying equipment may be rented or services are available to do it for hire. Aerifing is an excellent lawn practice with many benefits, as it helps solve soil problems that in turn leads to better root systems and healthier lawns. Aerify in spring or fall, making sure adequate moisture exists in the soil. Make two trips over the lawn, the second perpendicular to the first. An average of 15 to 20 aeration holes per square foot is suggested. Cores should remain on the surface and allowed to air dry. These cores act as topdressing that helps degrade thatch. Additional topdressing material could be added after core aerifying if desired.
slice seeding v. core aeration
Slice Seeding: Restores lawn
Slice seeding is used to either repair a damaged lawn or to improve a thin or weak lawn. Sometimes disease and insect damage can thin a lawn so badly that renovation is the last resort. On a new or thin lawn, slice seeding will introduce new seed into the lawn and help thicken it up. This method solves lawn problems efficiently, and improves your lawn’s density. The seeder cuts furrows into the soil and plants the seed into the furrow. This method puts the seed directly in contact with the soil as opposed to merely spreading seeds onto your lawn, many of which will most likely not germinate. Slice seeding plants new seed into the soil without stripping existing sod. It is the best way to renew or thin a heavily thatched lawn and sow in new and improved seed varieties. Slice seeding is the most effective way to ensure good seed to soil contact and prepare the seed bed at the same time. It enables you to have better looking and more resistant grass types that are adapted to the various conditions on your property.
Core aeration with overseeding: Used to thicken and upgrade lawn
Core aeration is the process of mechanically removing plugs of soil and thatch from a lawn. Overseeding is the process of putting seeds into a seed spreader, and then spreading the seeds over the entire lawn. The purpose of core aeration with overseeding is to introduce better grass varieties into your lawn. It reduces soil compaction, minimizes thatch accumulation, and will give you a greener and thicker lawn. Core aeration with overseeding is a great alternative because it combines aeration with specially formulated seeds for your lawn. It is important to note, however, that core aeration will not yield the same results as slice seeding.
sprinkler update
We cycled the system this morning and it looks like we are getting good coverage (now that the heads are repaired). The current problem spots are primarily thatch and places that are damaged needing repair. De-thatching and reseeding is currently not in our budget.
Sunday, August 24, 2008
Saturday, August 23, 2008
Thursday, August 21, 2008
construction update
West of Mason-Montgomery Road, Mainline will start installing permanent pavement on the south side of the road and complete installing driveways. When permanent pavement is complete traffic will be shifted to the south side of the road so that permanent pavement can be installed on the north side of the road.
Monday, August 18, 2008
grass seed
Now is the time to put down any feed if you plan to do that. Why? Because September is over-seed month and you don't want to get your applications too close together.
For grass seed there are tons of options. Just watch the weed seed percentage on the back. You may want to avoid rye and tall fescue too.
I used Scott’s heat tolerant blue the last time I over-seeded. It had a good mix of KBG cultivars and is made for drought conditions. You can get it at Lowes. It is a bit pricey, so make sure to keep it damp. Blue grass can take 20 days to germinate so you may want to wait till mid Sept. before putting any down, the damp nights will help with moisture/watering.
You might consider aeration before the seeding - Rich is looking into renting one.
And consider Scotts Starter Fertilizer with the seed.
Saturday, August 16, 2008
mason and more
- Background data and analysis, including area history, a description of existing social, economic and physical (natural and man-made) conditions and trends, and economic and demographic projections.
- Documentation of stakeholders’ interests (e.g., interests of residents, public officials, the business community, developers) and involvement in the process.
- A vision statement or statement of desired goals and objectives. Evaluation of the selected plan and design alternatives.
- A future plan map or maps depicting various components, including land use, transportation, community facilities, and housing areas.
- Sub-area development plans that more closely define the future development vision for several priority areas defined by the City of Mason.
- An implementation framework or schedule that describes specific measures to carry out the plan, their costs (if known), and the time frame for execution.
Friday, August 15, 2008
More Lawn Care
If anybody is interested in going in together to rent an Aerator in ~mid-Sept, let me know.
Fifth Application
Mid AugustScotts® Turf Builder® Lawn Fertilizer with 2% Iron - Nothing special here, just a feeding. This can be skipped if you want
Sixth Application
Mid September
Over-seed year with a better seed than what the builder used something more heat tolerant. Over seeding is simply seeding over the existing lawn. When over-seeding use: Scotts® Starter® Fertilizer – This has a lower nitrogen content allowing for good seed germination. Keep lawn damp as much as possible. The cool damp nights help this in the fall. Step 1 – Full Yard Aeration – helps loosen compacted clay soil Step 2 – Seed front yard only Step 3 – Apply Scotts® Starter® Fertilizer and keep seed damp
Seventh ApplicationThanksgiving
Scotts® Turf Builder® WinterGuard With PLUS 2® Weed Control – You will not see any immediate results from this. This is a jump start for next spring and it will kill off any cool season broad leaf weeds. This product helps root production and helps store carbohydrates for the winter.
Wednesday, August 13, 2008
green with coffee
Wake Your Garden Up with a Little Coffee
It's a beautiful morning. You've just brewed a fresh pot of coffee. You're about to take the grounds out and throw them in the -- garden? Why not? Coffee grounds have a lot of good things in them, like nitrogen. If you re-use coffee grounds in your garden, you'll see happier plants, and keep some stuff out of your local landfill.
How to Serve Coffee to Your Garden
You can sprinkle them around your azaleas, which love things on the acidic side. Work your coffee grounds - or tea leaves, for that matter - into your garden soil for slow-release nitrogen. If your plants need a quick pick-me-up, mix your grounds with water (about 5-6 parts water to 1 part grounds) and let it stand for a while. Then just pour it around the base of your plants. They'll perk up fast.
Put Some Zing in Your Compost Pile
Used coffee filters and tea bags are great composting material. They break down fast. The grounds and tea leaves you throw into your compost pile will give you a nitrogen-rich growing material. Worms love coffee almost as much as you do.
Experiment
It's fun to see which parts of your garden enjoy coffee more. Sprinkle some on your houseplants. Work some into the soil in your vegetable garden. Once you see the results, you'll never throw your coffee grounds in the trash again.
butterfly garden
Creating a butterfly garden is actually pretty easy. Butterflies are attracted to brightly colored flowers, so many of the popular annuals will be appropriate for a butterfly garden. Some other perennials they like are orange or purple coneflower, catmint, coreopsis, black-eyed Susan, butterfly weed, butterfly bush, English lavender, liatris, salvia, roses, yellow daylilies, and bright purple petunias.
A source of moisture is also important, although butterflies only drink from very shallow water sources, such as puddles – so the birdbath we placed in that part of the flowerbed turned out to be just for visual interest. When I water the plants, I try to leave some shallow puddles on the walk next to the flowerbed. You can also put a saucer in the garden and fill it with some water on top of sand or small stones.
Because butterflies can be blown about by gusts of wind, they like sunny locations with protection from the wind. Locating your flowerbed close to a wall, fence, hedge, or other windbreak may help to make your garden a place butterflies will want to hang out.
Monday, August 11, 2008
Recycle Mason
Recently I had the ....experience to tour Rumpke dump a.k.a Mt. Rumpke, in Colerain. Did you know they give tours? Did you know people actually go? What is in the landfills is 60% recyclable, but isn't. Then I picked up "Cincinnati" Magazine for 8/08 and it had a section on recycling and what to do with hazardous materials. I jotted the information down because I thought it'd be good for our blog. IF any of this is not correct, please correct it in the comments section. A special Computer Recycling Day is scheduled:Drop it off at: Mason Municipal Building
6000 Mason Montgomery Road
Saturday, August 30, 2008
9 AM – 12 NoonAll computers will be recycled or refurbished for underprivileged people.
Accepting:
Computer Units Mice
Monitors Printers
Key Boards
Attention Computer Geeks!
Would you like to help out on collection day?
Please call 513-695-1209 and volunteer!
You can pick up free recycling bins at the city building. If you pick up a second bin, just make sure it's 3/4 full when you put it out or they are instructed to pick it up.
Household Waste (Paint Cans,anti-freeze,yard waste etc.) Contact Warren County Solid Waste Management Hours of Operation: Monday - Friday, 8 AM to 4:30 PM (except holidays)
Telephone: 513-695-1209 www.co.warren.oh.us/solidwaste/sitemap.htm
Computer disposal/recycle: IAP 931-8950 or 985-1300* or Tristate Computer Exchange 870-9475 ext. 3571* (* means service fees may apply)
Appliances - Contact Solid Waste Management *
Tires: Contact Rumpke (They line the landfills and use it as covering) or your local tire dealer......or they make nice rope swings..........
Ammunition:Contact the Warren County Sheriff 695-1280 and contact me so I don't honk you off.
Propane Tanks: Collett's Propane Lebanon 228-1424 or Wilmington (SR 73 by Camp Kirkwood) 937-328-1624
Other "recyclables": Michele Ellis is saving plastic lids from soda's,etc. which get cashed in for chemo treatments for children. The elementary schools save Campbell soup labels and Boxtops for Education. And Christ Church at Mason has a paper recycling bin (green and yellow) at the back of the church on the Western Row Rd. side.
I feel like I should sing a song from the 70's here about loving mother earth, but it's early and my voice isn't warmed up.
Friday, August 8, 2008
Ice Cream Social
Thursday, August 7, 2008
Natorp's Fall Sale
Tuesday, August 5, 2008
Opportunity Knocks! Let's Play!
* Apply To Be On Opportunity Knocks
Go to WCPO's website to apply! www.wcpo.com
Reported by: Jeff Brogan
First, Extreme Makeover, now ABC is looking for another Tri-State Family for the network's newest game show.
"Opportunity Knocks" debuts on Channel 9 in September.
The show literally comes to a home, turning a neighborhood into a game show set.
ABC says a mobile semi-truck with prizes will be on hand.
A family can win prizes and money based on what they know about each other.
Monday, July 28, 2008
Lunch at Pine Hills Park This Tuesday
Friday, July 25, 2008
off at night!!!
Thursday, July 24, 2008
water off again
As a part of the Western Row Road Widening Project, water to Mason Fields will be shut off on Monday, July 28, 2008 starting at 8:00 p.m. for about 6 to 8 hours. This shutdown is necessary to install a shut off valve on the existing 12" water main as required by Greater Cincinnati Water Works. This Valve will allow future work on this water main without again shutting off water to Mason Fields.
In case of rain the proposed work will be done on Tuesday, July 29, at the same time.
Wednesday, July 23, 2008
Kids and Cars
Saturday, July 19, 2008
Fire Levy August 5
http://www.imaginemason.org/home.php?ID=158
Thursday, July 17, 2008
time for weeds to be gone
How to Use
Spray weeds until they are thoroughly misted, but not dripping.
When to Apply
Spray when weeds are actively growing. Rain or watering 1 hour after application will not wash away effectiveness. Spray when daytime temperatures are above 45° F and below 90° F.
How often to apply
Apply to actively growing weeds as needed. Wait 2-3 weeks before reapplying to same weeds. Some difficult to control weeds may require additional applications to achieve complete control.
Where to Use
Use Ortho® Weed B Gon MAX® Plus Crabgrass Control to kill the toughest weeds in these lawns: Bermudagrass, Buffalograss, Fescues, Kentucky Bluegrass, Perennial Ryegrass, and Zoysiagrass.
Where Not to Use
Do not use on St. Augustine, Centipede or Bahiagrass lawns.
What it Controls
Weeds: Kills over 225 weeds, including: Barnyardgrass, Broadleaf Signalgrass, Bur Clover, Carpetweeds, Chickweeds, Creeping Charlie, Cudweed, Curly Dock, Dandelion, English Daisy, False Dandelion, Field Bindweed, Filaree, Florida Pusley, Heartleaf Drymary, Henbit, Junglerice, Kikuyugrass*, Large Crabgrass, Oxalis, Pennywort, Plantains, Purslane, Red Sorrel, Sheep Sorrel, Smooth Crabgrass, Giant Foxtail, Green Foxtail, Yellow Foxtail, Torpedograss*, Speedwell, Spurges, Spurweed, Thistles, Toadflax, White Clover, Wild Carrot, Wild Geranium, Wild Onion, and other broadleaf weeds. *Make 2 sequential applications at 14 to 21 day intervals to control.
Desired Results
Should see twisting, curling, and yellowing of weed leaves in 24 hours on most weeds.
Friday, July 11, 2008
Thursday, July 10, 2008
Visitors to the Neighborhood
We had a special visit from TITUS a Cincinnati Police Dog. The Thatchers and the Oslers got to watch him do some search and recovery. Unfortunately it was mid-day and no one else was home. Sometimes when you watch the Cincinnati news you will see Officer Neal and Titus. This may be our neighborhoods' only brush with fame. The boy in the photo is our friend Zach Neal, who we count as a brush with friendship. Our dog tater Tot merely got to watch Titus get petted and mark his territory. Tater Tot did not appreciate the visit.
Sunday, July 6, 2008
Friday, July 4, 2008
speaking of weird
neighborhood geeks
Tuesday, July 1, 2008
hands-free driving laws
And while I'm at it ... speed and cutting corners.
1) The legal speed limit is 25 mph through our neighborhood. But there are about 6 million kids in this neighborhood. If the street was a mile long (it's not), at 25 mph it would take you 2.4 minutes from end-to-end. If you went 20 mph, 3 minutes ... and 15 mph is 4 minutes. Net, the difference is negligible yet hitting a kid will change your life (and possibly theirs) forever. Knowing that you went the limit won't make you feel better.
And as noted in an earlier post, some are even going above the limit.
2) What's with cutting the corners on these turns? I actually have tire prints in my yard between the sidewalk and street. Please, this is not Formula 1 and you are not that cool. If you have to follow that arc in the turn you are likely going too fast anyway.
Thanks for your help ... signed, the grumpy guy on the corner.
Sunday, June 29, 2008
speeding
Let's please try to watch our speed.
For the most part it is not homeowners here. I is delivery people "pizza" or people that are turning around.
I am debating on calling the police to see about speed humps being put in. Any one have any thoughts? I am guessing that the speed humps will only happen if enough complaint calls are received. Let me know what you think.
The last guy that I asked to slow down last night actually got out of his car and yelled the speed limit it 25 and that's what I am doing. He had been drinking and was delivering a paper of some sort. luckily Mike was outside.
John
Thursday, June 26, 2008
sedgehammer is in!!!!
One gallon covers 1000 sq. ft. but none of us have solid nutsedge. I did my whole yard with about half a gallon. I think it will take another couple of applications before it is under control but eventually 1 gallon should last an entire season.
John/Rich - since you already have your own surfactant, I can give you a break and charge you only $7.50 per gallon.
What You Need To Know When you Are New To The Area
Trash pick up is Monday, but they come early Monday am, so consider putting it out Sunday pm. They do trash pick up on holidays. Recycling bins are free and available at the Mason City Building (across from the Community Center.) They will give you 2 if you ask, but the recycling guy told me they are instructed to pick up the second if neither bin is that full.
You live near the Little Miami Scenic Bike Trail. Family fun, but not wise to go it alone. King's Island and the Zoo are good memberships. Krohn Conservatory is free and wonderful to see spring flowers end of January!
3 Major grocery stores: Bigg's, Meijer's, and Kroger's.BUT Jungle Jim's is a blast! Kids love it. I encourage you to go early (8-9a) with kids so it's less crowded and they can enjoy it more. Oh,and take me, Karen Osler. I can show you the cool stuff.
Cincinnatians say things like PONY KEG which is the local stop and shop . "UDF" is United Dairy Farmers which is also a pony keg......... We also say "Please?" when we want something repeated.
Best food unique to our area: Skyline Chili, Graeter's ice cream and I think the Precinct Restaurant/Jeff Ruby's Steakhouse. The best restaurant to see the city is the Riverview (in N. Ky), which revolves around- they have a nice Sunday brunch.
The Level 1 Trauma Centers are Univ. of Cincinnati and Miami Valley. Level 3 is Bethesda North. Children's Hospital is THE place to take your kids, known worldwide. They have an Urgent Care at Children's Mason 6p-11p. A new 24/7 Children's will be open in West Chester in August. John and I have both tried the Doctor's Urgent Care on Tylersville with satisfaction. Arrow Springs ER is 2 exits up- SR 48 North. Same docs and nurses as B-North but no waits and fastest way to get a bed at North. That being said I am forever partial to Christ Hospital. What you weren't asking?
Okay- help me out. What do you think our new neighbors need to know?
Tuesday, June 24, 2008
Extreme Home Makeover is Coming!
Here's the link:
http://emhe.duke-energy.com/default.asp
Sunday, June 22, 2008
more on nutsedge
I started to add a comment but thought some folks may not notice it. This post is to build on yours.
0.9 g makes 1 gallon of spray. As bad as my yard and a neighbor's was, we used a full gallon in one application. John Conyer whose yard is in great shape claims that once under control, a gallon should last a season.
I have ordered about 30 applications worth - should arrive this week. The larger quantity was far cheaper than ordering individually.
Once it arrives, I will do the math but I think I can sell it for $10 (or less) for a gallon's worth.
So, if you have a sprayer, contact me at rianniello {at} gmail {dot} com ... of course do the right thing with the "at" and "dot".
Nutsedge
Description
Plant Description
Yellow nutsedge is distinctive and relatively easy to identify. The stems are erect, triangular-shaped and yellow-green in color. The leaves are also yellow-green, wide (0.38 to 0.50 inch) bladed with a thick mid-vein and a very waxy covering. The shallow, fibrous root system often produces many nut-like tubers, which are underground food storage organs. Each of these tubers can germinate and produce new plants. Each new plant can also produce rhizomes which can give rise to additional new plants.
Figure 1. Yellow nutsedge
Yellow nutsedge is a warm season perennial plant. The above ground foliage does not survive winters in Ohio. However, as soils warm during the late spring and early summer period, germination of tubers and seed produced by plants from previous years are capable of producing new yellow nutsedge plants. Heavy infestations of this weed in lawns and other turfgrass areas usually become readily apparent in July and August.
Figure 2. Yellow nutsedge rhizomes
Growth Habit
The color, texture, and growth habit of yellow nutsedge all contribute to aesthetic incompatibility with the desirable lawn turfgrasses. In addition to the aesthetic differences, the leaves of this weed have a rapid rate of vertical elongation resulting in their frequent protrusion above the canopy of the desirable grasses. Combined, these distractions make lawns unattractive during the mid to late summer period. Yellow nutsedge thrives under warm, wet conditions and can often be found in low, damp areas of lawns. This weed is often most problematic during summers with above normal rainfall. Management and environmental factors, including improper mowing, nutrient deficiencies, insect damage, drought stress, etc., which stress or reduce the density or competitive ability of the desirable turfgrasses, will often lead to increased populations of yellow nutsedge.
Unlike most lawn weeds, yellow nutsedge is not controlled with applications of traditional annual grass weed or broadleaf weed control products. This weed is a member of the sedge family and requires the use of very specific herbicides to achieve satisfactory control. Regardless of the control strategy selected, the plan should be initiated when the weeds are young and immature. Eradication from lawns, although difficult, can be accomplished through the following approaches.
If only a few yellow nutsedge plants are present, hand pulling may be the best way to selectively eradicate the weeds. Begin physically removing the weeds as soon as the weed plants are observed. Removal of the entire plant including root systems is necessary. Pulling mature plants is difficult. These plants will often break off at the soil surface allowing regrowth and tuber development to continue. After removal, homeowners are advised to recheck the area periodically for regrowth. This approach is effective only if performed on a regular basis.
Where large patches of nutsedge are present, control through the use of herbicides may be the only satisfactory option. Homeowners may purchase, through retailers, herbicides to eliminate this weed. The performance of these products is dependent on the user accurately following the "Directions For Use." Normally, two applications are required with the repeat application made 10 to 14 days following the initial application. When applying control products, avoid mowing three to five days before and after treatment. To ensure adequate herbicide absorption, do not water the lawn for at least 24 to 48 hours after product application. Applications should ideally be initiated in the late spring/early summer when the nutsedge is young, actively growing, and is most sensitive to herbicidal control. Once this weed matures, control is difficult regardless of the treatment schedule.
The most effective turfgrass herbicides currently available for yellow nutsedge control are "Basagran" (bentazon) and "Manage" (halosulfuron). These herbicides are not sold through typical retail outlets. Homeowners desiring applications of either of these two chemical controls are encouraged to contact a licensed, commercial lawn applicator. Even with the use of these herbicides, a few weeks time may be required to eliminate the plants that are present and additional, repeat applications to control germinating nutlets may be necessary at a later time. As with the products available to homeowners, these herbicides perform best when treatments are made on young, actively growing nutsedge plants.
Homeowners should make note of the control strategies that are successful. Because of the seed and tubers that remain in the soil, repeat infestations in subsequent years should be anticipated.
Thursday, June 19, 2008
Mowers For Hire
Contact is Nick Linberg
513.304.5447
twoteachersandamower@yahoo.com (somewhat slow on returning email, but you will eventually hear back...my email's seem to be going to his spam box even though it is one yahoo acct to another).
Tuesday, June 17, 2008
Farmer's Markets
Click here!
Thursday, June 12, 2008
more lawn thoughts
Under conditions of stress, like extremely hot and dry weather, grass will turn brown and go dormant as a natural survival mechanism. If your grass is dormant, there is nothing you can do right now. Dormant grass will not respond to fertilizing. Fertilize your lawn when the rain returns and your grass begins to recover. Once green, feeding your lawn will strengthen its root system and give it the nutrients it needs to recover faster.
Recovering Lawn
If your grass is beginning to recover from drought conditions, fertilize it now. Feeding now will help restore your lawn back to health by giving it the nutrients it needs to stay strong and healthy. It will also protect your yard against heat and drought in the future. A well-fed lawn just doesn't get as thirsty.
Healthy Lawn
If your lawn is green and hasn't been affected by heat and drought, continue your normal feeding and watering schedule. A well-fed lawn maintains a stronger, deeper root system that protects against the effects of heat and drought and uses available moisture in the soil more efficiently.
Wednesday, June 11, 2008
Beautify Our Neighborhood: Prune Your Trees
Pruning your trees not only beautifies the neighborhood, it is also healthy for your trees by focusing their growth. Please go out and take a look at your trees (and your neighbors) and prune where needed.
Monday, June 9, 2008
amendments
As a reminder, here are the top lines of these amendments.
- Allow for two installments of the HOA annual assessment with a $15 surcharge.
- Require a 55% assenting vote to levy future special assessments for capital expenditures.
- Outline specific landscape and maintenance requirements and provide for enforcement thereof.
- Require majority consent for future amendment proposals.
- Not allow registered sex offenders to take future residence in Mason Fields.
Sunday, June 8, 2008
tree pruning
1. Crown Thinning - Crown thinning, primarily for hardwoods, is the selective removal of branches to increase light penetration and air movement throughout the crown of a tree. The intent is to maintain or develop a tree's structure and form. To avoid unnecessary stress and prevent excessive production of epicormic sprouts, no more than one-quarter of the living crown should be removed at a time. If it is necessary to remove more, it should be done over successive years.
Crown thinning - branches to be removed are shaded in blue; pruning cuts should be made at the red lines. No more than one-fourth of the living branches should be removed at one time.
2. Crown Raising - Crown raising is the practice of removing branches from the bottom of the crown of a tree to provide clearance for pedestrians, vehicles, buildings, lines of site, or to develop a clear stem for timber production. Also, removing lower branches on white pines can prevent blister rust. For street trees the minimum clearance is often specified by municipal ordinance. After pruning, the ratio of the living crown to total tree height should be at least two-thirds (e.g., a 12 m tree should have living branches on at least the upper 8 m).
On young trees "temporary" branches may be retained along the stem to encourage taper and protect trees from vandalism and sun scald. Less vigorous shoots should be selected as temporary branches and should be about 10 to 15 cm apart along the stem. They should be pruned annually to slow their growth and should be removed eventually.
Crown raising - branches to be removed are shaded in blue; pruning cuts should be made where indicated with red lines. The ratio of live crown to total tree height should be at least two-thirds.
Wednesday, June 4, 2008
It's Berry Picking Time!
My Favorite: Dale Stokes Berry Farm, 2822 Center Road, Wilmington. 937-382-4004. 8 a.m.-dark daily. Late May to July: strawberries. Late-June to early July: black red, purple and yellow, August and September: red, purple and yellow raspberries. Containers provided. I-71 to Ohio 73; drive east to Williams Road; turn left, then right on Center Road to farm. Visit stokes berryfarm.com. I think they'll have blackberries,too but will ask when we go up Sunday!
Iron's Fruit Farm is the closest. They also have a fun corn maze in the fall!Irons Fruit Farm, 1640 Stubbs Mill Road, Lebanon. 513-932-2853. Call for picking times and availability. Mid-June: blueberries. Mid-July: Green beans, tomatoes. Mid-August: red raspberries. Mid-September: apples. Late September and October: pumpkins and gourds. Containers provided. I-71 to Ohio 123; go north toward Lebanon; turn left on Stubbs Mill Road and watch for signs about 2 miles on the left. Visit www.ironsfruit farm.com.
A&M Farm Orchard, 22141 Ohio 251, Midland, 513-875-2500. 8 a.m.-8 p.m. Monday-Saturday; 1-8 p.m. Sunday. Call for fall hours. Early June: strawberries. September to October: apples and grapes. Containers provided. I-275 to Ohio 28; through Blanchester to Midland in southeast Clinton County; south on U.S. 68 to Ohio 251. Farm is 1 mile east.
Barn 'n' Bunk Farm Market, Ohio 73 and Wayne Madison Road, Trenton. 513-988-9211. Call for hours and availability. Late May: snow peas. Late June to August: half runner beans, stringless beans, greasy beans and Roma beans. I-75 to Ohio 63; go west on Ohio 63 to Ohio 4; north on Ohio 4 to Ohio 73; west on Ohio 73. Farm is near Ohio 73 and Wayne-Madison Road.
Bergefurd's Farm Market & Greenhouse, 234 Ohio 350 West. Corner of U.S. 68 South and Ohio 350 in Clinton County. 937-383-2133. 9 a.m.-5 p.m. Monday-Friday; 9 a.m.-6 p.m. Saturday and Sunday: call first, as berries are limited. Late May/early June: strawberries. Late September: pumpkins. Montgomery Road north through Morrow to Ohio 350; turn right. Or, take Ohio 28 through Blanchester to U.S. 68; turn left.
Bet-ter Farms, 1971 Sicily Road, Mount Orab. 937-446-2593. Opens 8 a.m. Monday-Saturday; closed Sunday. Call for closing hours and picking status later in the day. Early June: strawberries. Containers provided. I-275 to Ohio 32; go east to Sicily Road past Mount Orab; turn left. Farm is a little more than 3 miles, in southwest Highland County.
Blooms & Berries, 9669 Ohio 48, Loveland. 513-697-9173. Daily. Call for hours, picking times and availability. Late May: strawberries. October: pumpkins. I-71 to Ohio 48 exit (Lebanon); south on Ohio 48, through Maineville. Farm is on the right, about 2 miles south of Maineville.
Blooms & Berries, 10900 Loveland Madeira Road, Loveland. 513-697-9173. 11 a.m.-6 p.m. Tuesday-Sunday, July 1-Sept. 1.
Hidden Valley Fruit Farm, 5474 N. Ohio 48, Lebanon. 513-932-1869. Call for availability and picking times. Early to mid-June: strawberries. Mid-late June: blueberries. Early July: early apples. Late June to mid-July: red raspberries. Mid-July: green beans. August: sweet corn and pears. August-September: apples and Concord, Fredonia and Niagara grapes. September-October: apples and pumpkins. I-75 to Ohio 122 exit (Middletown); east 7 miles to Ohio 48; north 2 miles to farm.
Robert Rothschild Farm, 3143 East Ohio 36, Urbana. 800-356-8933. Tours available. Call for hours and availability. Mid-August to mid-September: red raspberries. I-75 to I-675 (near Dayton); east toward Columbus; take Ohio 68 north and follow signs to Urbana, in Champaign County; at the traffic circle in town, turn right on Ohio 36. Farm is on the right, about 3 miles east of Urbana.
Rouster's Apple House, 1986 Ohio 131, Milford. 513-625-5504. Call ahead for picking times and availability. Late June to August: blueberries. Late July: thornless blackberries. Containers provided. I-275 to exit 59-A (Milford Parkway); follow parkway onto Ohio 131. Farm is 6 miles beyond intersection of Ohio 131 and U.S. 50. Blueberry plantation is on the right, 500 yards before the apple house.
Spaeth Farm, 1469 South Ohio 741, Lebanon. 513-932-2151. Call ahead for availability and picking times. Early June: strawberries Mid-July: green beans and sweet corn. I-71 to exit 25 (Kings Island); left on Ohio 741. Farm is on the left, about 5 miles north. From I-75 north, take exit 29 and turn right on Ohio 63; turn right on Ohio 741. Farm is on the right.
Strawberry Patch, 6815 Hamilton-Mason Road, West Chester Township. 513-777-3642. Call for hours and availability. Through June: strawberries. I-75 to Ohio 129; go west to Cincinnati-Dayton Road; turn left and follow to Hamilton-Mason Road; turn right. Farm is less than 1 mile on the left.
Windmill Farm Market, 1454 E. Ohio 73, Springboro. 937-885-3965. Call for availability. October: pumpkins. I-71 to Ohio 73; follow signs. Farm is on the right, 5 miles west of Waynesville and 3 miles east of Springboro.
Saturday, May 31, 2008
ding dongs and pumpkin
Ding Dong Cake
2) Mix 1 cup of powdered sugar and 8 oz. cream cheese (soft). Fold in 8 oz. cool whip. Spread whole mixture on top of ding dogs.
3) Mix two 3.9 oz. boxes of instant chocolate pudding with 3 cups of milk. Spread on top of cool whip.
4) Put remaining 4 oz. of cool whip (buy 12 oz. tub) on top. Sprinkle top with tons of chocolate chips and your choice of nuts.
Pumpkin Cobbler
29 oz. can pumpkin4 lg. eggs beaten
1 ½ c. sugar
1 tsp ginger (or 2 ½ tsp pumpkin pie spice)
½ tsp. Cloves
2 tsp. Cinnamon
½ c. each brown sugar & nuts of your choice
12 oz. can evaporated milk
1 yellow cake mix
1 c. melted butter
Blend together pumpkin, eggs, sugar, spices, & evap. Milk. Pour into 13x9” pan. Sprinkle dry cake mixture on top. Pour butter over cake mixture, then top with brown sugar and nuts. Bake at 350 F for 1 hour and 20 minutes. Serve warm (with whipped cream if you wish)
italian cream soda
- 4 ounces Italian syrup
- 4 ounces half-and-half
- 10 ounces club soda
- ice
The two brands of syrups I found (Torani and Monin) are both available at Jungle Jim's. On-line is cheaper with more variety in flavors but the shipping cost is too high.
Finally, I like to mix the cream and syrup together first to minimize stirring of the soda later ... loses its fizz. And don't make the rookie mistake of putting the ice in fist and then thinking you will be able to stir the thing.
Friday, May 30, 2008
County Line Mulch
Thursday, May 29, 2008
neighborhood fun
Thursday, May 22, 2008
feed & control time
Be sure to apply Scotts® Turf Builder® with Plus 2® Weed Control to a wet lawn or in the morning when there is still dew on the grass. The granules in Turf Builder® with Plus 2® need to stick to the foliage in order to kill the broadleaf weeds.
You can mow before or after applying, but be sure to keep 2-3 days between mowing and your application. The weed control works through the leaves of the weeds, and in order to be absorbed more easily you'll want the weeds to be developed and not cut short. More leaf surface means better weed control!
New Weeds
http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/4000/4010.html
There is a product called Sedgehammer that will kill it. I have only found it at Natorps. The nutsedge is very waxy so the sedgehammer needs to be mixed with a surfactant (also at Natorps) to help it stick to the weed.
Friday, May 16, 2008
Power Outage 5/27
Wednesday, May 14, 2008
Grillin' With The Adams
The Adams are doing burgers and dogs. We are making grilled garden veggie sandwiches (better than it sounds) and orange chipotle chicken w/ black bean salsa. The Ellis' are grilling some chicken,too. Feel free to bring some more burgers/buns/dogs,etc. and join us.
The Adams are a family of 5 who moved here from Penn.,from Tenn. and originally from Utah. They moved a lot because of the Army. Merrill is an Army Major. RaKell is a school teacher. Shortly after they moved here RaKell had surgery and Merrill was shipped to Iraq. Their lives were even more blessed when Hannah (13) was on her bike and struck by a car . Laura , who is graduating, & Tanner had fairly good health in Ohio. Somehow they survived all of this and never complained. We hate seeing such high functioning individuals leave so we thought a grill out where I sit by their grill and sob would be just barrels of fun. Also don't forget to give Merrill a thank you for serving our country!
Feel free to join us, I won't cry. I am just kidding.
The new neighbors will move in around 6/4? All I know is that he is an MD and they have 6 kids under the age of 11. Please make sure you stop by and welcome them (and that Tater Tot's not chewing on one of them!)
If you have any questions about the grill out just call me- Karen 336-0312
Tuesday, May 13, 2008
grubs
If you see Japanese Beetles in your trees, and dead patches of grass in your lawn, you could have grubs. Grubs are the larvae of Japanese beetles, June beetles, and chafers. These C–shaped creatures (off–white in color with a dark head) feast on the roots of your grass causing irregularly shaped patches of wilted, dead or dying grass in April and May, and again in August to mid–October. A bad infestation can kill your lawn. To find out if you have a problem, peel back a square foot of turf. If you see six or more grubs, it's time for action. With good treatments available, such as Scotts® Grubex®, and good timing, you can keep grubs under control.
Prevention and Maintenance
Time your treatment
You want to apply your lawn treatment when grubs are newly hatched or just before. That's because they're easier to control when they're small. For most lawns, that means applying around June and July, or when you see adult Japanese Beetles flying around.
Prepare your lawn
You want to make it easier for the treatment to work. That's why it helps to mow your lawn before treatment. Also, if you have more than half an inch of thatch, it could get in the way of the treatment. You'll want to de–thatch your lawn first.
Don't forget watering
Apply the day after watering your lawn, then water thoroughly after treatment. You want the treatment to soak in and get the grubs where they live.
Maintenance
Make it a routine to apply Scotts® Grubex® lawn treatment every June or July. You can also apply it your in April or May, but the grubs are much bigger, and harder to control at that time.
Monday, May 12, 2008
tick hoax - WARNING
If someone comes to your front door saying they are checking for ticks due to the spring weather and asks you to take your clothes off and spin around with your arms up ...
THIS IS A SCAM!!
They only want to see you naked.
I wish I'd gotten this yesterday. I feel so stupid.
Wednesday, May 7, 2008
The Construction begins May7th!
Speaking of Petting Zoos-please don't pet Tater Tot, our dog, unless we are there. He snipped at the youngest of the Nalluris. We are working with him, but I don't want anyone else to be hurt. We are addressing the behavior of the dog- it's the humans we can't protect. Thanks for your understanding. He is fine on leash! Please approach him! Thanks.
Thursday, May 1, 2008
rss
If you read even one blog regularly, RSS is for you. It will save you time, I promise.
Some of you may be wondering, "Doesn't everyone use RSS?" The answer is no; less than 6% of internet users take advantage of this extraordinarily helpful technology.
I've read lots of posts on what RSS is and how to use it, but they're limited in their helpfulness. There are just too many options out there to fully explain any one of them in a post that tackles RSS as a whole. So I am going to use the majority of this article to help non-RSS-users get started on Google Reader.
If you follow these instructions, you will be subscribed to your favorite sites and already saving time by the end of this article.
What Is RSS and Why Is It Worthwhile?
The acronym RSS stands for a couple things. The most helpful as far as a clear explanation of what it's for is "Real Simple Syndication."
RSS is a technology that allows you to subscribe to any website that has one of these in the address bar. You can then track every site you're subscribed to without having to go to each individual site.
If you're like me there are a couple websites that you love to read. Without RSS, I would be looking at these sites regularly to see if there were new material. Depending on how often I checked, I wouldn't see anything new most times I visited.
With RSS, I never again have to go to a site that has no new material. I subscribe to the sites I enjoy and am updated every time they post.
(This is especially helpful for keeping track of those bloggers who we want to read but who only post every 3 months.)
Why I'm Focusing on Google Reader
If you're not a current RSS-user and would like to be, my hope is that by the end of this article you'd have everything you need to begin. In order to do that, I need to pick one feedreader to show you how to use. ("Feedreaders" are the programs that people use to collect and manage their RSS subscriptions.)
I've chosen to use Google Reader for 3 reasons:
- It's free and available to everyone no matter what computer or browser you use.
- It is by far the most popular feedreader that's out there right now. On both the blogs I write for, Google subscribers are between 35-40% of the readership. The next most popular feedreader only claims about 5% of readers.
- It's really easy to use, so let's get started.
1. Create a Google account.
2. Go to Google Reader and make sure you're signed in.
Adding a Subscription in Google Reader
1. Select "Add Subscription" from the left column.
2. Type in the address of a blog you want to subscribe to and click "Add."
Adding a Subscription from Elsewhere Online
1. When you are visiting a site that you want to subscribe to, click on the orange icon in the address bar or on a link provided on the site.
You will either see a page like this:
Or like this:
2. On either page, select Google as the reader you want to subscribe with.
3. On the first page, you will need to click "Subscribe Now."
4. On either page, choose "Add to Google Reader."
Reading and Managing your Subscriptions
Reading Options
You now have a few of your favorite blogs listed in the left column of your Google reader page. The best way to go through your feeds is up to you. Here are some options.
- Home, at the top of the left column, is where you can see new, unread posts listed with just a few lines of content.
- All Items, just below "Home," is where you can see new, unread posts listed with all their content.
- Selecting an individual feed from the list in the left column allows you to see new posts as well as scroll down through older ones.
In the upper right corner you will see tabs for "Expanded view" and "List view." These allow you to decide whether you see all content as you scroll through your feeds or just titles and the first few words.
Marking as Read
You will mark a post as read when you click on it. Scrolling through posts will also mark them as read, although you can turn this feature off in settings if you want to. Finally, if you want to mark all your new posts as read at once, you can do so at the top of the "All Items" page.
Unsubscribing
When you change your mind about being subscribed to a blog, you can unsubscribe by going to the settings in the upper right corner.
You're All Set!